Travels with Jan and Jerry Erickson

- 2010-04-08 07:51:32

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

- 2010-04-08 07:52:46

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

2010: Istanbul to Venice - 2010-04-27 09:28:58

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Venice, Italy

April 16, 2010...
Disembarkation takes no time with only 290 passengers. It was all quite smoothly accomplished in less than two hours. Soon, we were checked into our hotel near the airport awaiting our flight home in 20 hours. We chose the airport location since we would be leaving the hotel at 5 am for a 7 am flight to Frankfurt, and then on to Seattle. With a day to see Venice, we quickly decided to join others and take the local bus back into catch the water taxis.

Our son, Greg, had called before we left the ship to let us know the ash cloud was spreading towards Venice and he thought our flight might not make it out on Saturday morning. We agreed to keep in contact and, within three hours, airports throughout northern Europe were shutting down. Not knowing how long the ash from the Icelandic volcano would continue to pose aircraft and breathing problems, we decided late in the afternoon to go to the airport and check in person with Lufthansa. By the time we arrived, Venice was saying they felt they would also close Saturday and the earliest they could rebook us would be Tuesday. We graciously took the seats and agreed to stay informed and check back every day between now and then.

When we checked in to our hotel, we asked to have the room for an extra night and there was one room available at that time. We had taken it as insurance, just in case. This proved to be a good move on our part, but the even better move was to go to the airport the night before our anticipated flight. Those going to the airport today (Saturday, April 17th) are finding the first available flights will be next Wednesday and Thursday. Hopefully, we’ve saved ourselves one or two additional nights here. But what we saved most was the agony of sleeping and living in the airport for three to six days like thousands of others are all over Europe. And today: there are no rooms available at this hotel for the next several days and the lobby is swarming with others trying to secure a room made available by no shows from cancelled incoming flights. This should happen, with few if any, planes landing today. But for now, quite a mess in and around the Venice airport.

Back to Venice: we joined another couple on the way into Venice; they were also from the Silver Wind and scheduled to depart Saturday with us. Highlights of today’s trek into Venice (a 20 minute bus ride) were a sidewalk lunch, time in St. Marcos Square, a walk through the main and back alleyways, and learning the water taxi system. We laughed, shopped a bit, met others from the ship, had gelato and laughed some more. It was a wonderful time. Check for pictures under Italy and then Venice, of course. Oh, I almost forgot: St Marco’s Basilica is being cleaned. Oh my gosh, it is amazing with the fabulous colors and patterns showing on the façade. In several visits, we never knew St. Mark‘s could be so beautiful and colorful.

This morning, Craig and Barbara (the other Silver Wind couple) secured new airline reservations for Wednesday. Keep checking back to this blog for the ongoing adventures of Barbara and Craig and Jan and Jerry “stuck” in Venice.

2010: Istanbul to Venice - 2010-04-27 10:42:19

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Rhodes and Lindos, Greece

Our first port of Rhodes provided sunshine, Greek food, and the beginning of an historical journey into antiquities. This island has been inhabited since 4000 BC and played a major role in commerce between Europe, Asia and the Middle East. Rhodes (Rodos as the locals call the island) means rose, and was once home to one of the original Seven Wonders of the Ancient World: Colossus of Rhodes. History claims that the statue was built over a 12-year period ending in 282 BC. Details are diverse. When we first visited here in 1980, we were told it was a grand statue that towered over the entrance to their harbor and was actually part of the walled city. It appears that time has changed a lot of evidence, since our guide now says it couldn’t have stood there on simply two legs high enough to allow the ships to pass underneath it, considering the height of their sails. He is probably correct. We were also shown the typical photograph to back up his claims. Later in the day he showed us where the Colossus was probably located inside the medieval city’s walls.

Rhodes has been plagued by earthquakes throughout the centuries; they are recorded almost monthly even today. That is most likely what destroyed Colossus in 226 BC. For the following 800 years, the ruins just laid there! Finally, a Jewish merchant used 900 camels to haul it away. When you look at the 2-1/2 feet thick walls, you can only imagine how imposing and huge that statue had to have been.

The word acropolis means acro for top and polis for city. This explains why we see ruins marking the highest points in many of the cities in this area, more often than not being referred to as “acropolis“. Rhodes had its Acropolis overlooking the city and harbor. From there we could see all the way to Turkey. The Greeks and Turks in this region have fought for years, but now tourism keeps them busy from April to November. The few months in between allow only for rest, the holidays, and then preparation for more tourists…so not much fighting happens anymore.

Nearly an hour’s ride from Rhodes, the village of Lindos, with its narrow walkways at the base of yet another acropolis, provided for the most spectacular views of the day. We hiked up 390 uneven steps to the highest point, to explore the Temple of Athena (dedicated to the Greek goddess Athena). The temple and surrounding buildings were quite impressive. Built in the 6^th century BC by Clovius, a surprising number of them remain. The Greeks continued to worship these gods until Paul’s arrival, bringing Christianity in 52 AD. Today Greece is 98 percent Christian Greek Orthodox. However, the heritage of the Greek gods remains a huge part of their history.

Once back in the village of Lindos, we joined another couple and sampled some mouth watering lemon curd crepes. This, then, became our appetizer for a fabulous Greek buffet which we devoured when we returned to the city of Rhodes itself.

A walking tour of the old city ended our stay in Rhodes. Rhodes city was formed in 408 BC and it rapidly became the richest city in the antiquities, with artists producing many of the Greek and Roman statues visible still today throughout the world. Our tour included a visit to a grand palace which Benito Mussolini rebuilt, hoping to use for himself. Fortunately, that never materialized. Soon we were back out into the narrow streets of old Rhodes, enjoying the local atmosphere and their town. It was a great day ashore.

The evening ended with an incredible sunset for our Virtuoso cocktail party in the Silver Wind’s Observation Lounge. Our guests were served caviar, shrimp, and lovely hors d’oeuvres while we chased the sun into darkness. It was a perfect ending to a fabulous day.

2010: Istanbul to Venice - 2010-04-27 11:01:04

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Mykonos, Greece

Mykonos has tripled in size since our last visit about 10 years ago. It is basically a granite island with no fresh water…so sea water is processed to support the entire island. It is an idyllic paradise for vacationers from April to October. Today it was 70 degrees, but the wind at one time was over 40 mph! The quaint, white homes are scattered up the hillsides as well along the tiny meandering streets…nearly all have blue doors of one shade or another. It is lovely when viewed from both water and land.

Several 16^th century windmills have been converted into homes and small white churches appear quite frequently. Nightlife is booming here, and since we do not leave until 11 pm tonight, we may hear some of that.

Today we simply walked the streets and visited the famous pelican named Petros. He is actually a replacement since the original bird, who lived here for 50 years, died. But Petros lives on…right alongside the beachfront cafes and jewelry stores which line the streets. We actually bought a couple of paintings, our first purchase of the trip. Two for $54 was the right price for us and they will be a great memory of both this and previous visits to Mykonos.

Tomorrow is Santorini with more white homes built on the hillsides, only tomorrow’s will be built on the side of a volcanic crater.

2010: Istanbul to Venice - 2010-04-27 11:16:02

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Santorini, Greece

Perched high on the rim of a volcanic caldera, Santorini is an island of whitewashed buildings and colorfully painted roofs. With narrow cobblestone streets winding up and down hillsides, Santorini is a perfect setting for strolling among boutique cubicles of clothing, art, souvenirs, and jewelry. Top that off with excellent restaurants, and you can sense why so many people seek this haven in the middle of absolutely no where.

Over 2 million years ago this was the island of Thera. The volcano (Santorini) is simply all that remains of Thera. The lagoon in the center area is 1300 feet deep so it is a perfect harbor for all kinds of sailing vessels. Our day in port had us as the only cruise ship, though. April is the beginning of the tourist season and all the merchants were eager for customers; but it is no struggle to ward off vendors. The lovely shop keepers just want to invite you in to see what they have to sell you. We have never felt any pressure any where any time we have been here.

If you arrive by ship, you generally have three options for accessing the town of Fira, Santorini’s capital and main destination high atop the cliff. First: for centuries donkeys have been used to scale the zigzag path up the hill. Jerry has refused that version since our 1980 trip where he actually left with saddle sores for a week! Second: you can also walk amongst the donkey droppings and hope they do not push you off their path. Not the cleanest, but very doable and we have done that too. Third: you can travel up the hillside in a fenicular. That is the easiest and, of course, we have tried that method as well. Jerry doesn’t like the swinging and has a bit of an issue with heights, so we usually compromise and go up the funicular and back down the paths…on foot, of course. Once however, we did manage to avoid all three when our ship docked on the back side of Santorini and we were able to take a bus to Fira. That time we visited an archaeological dig on the back side of the island. This cruise, we haven’t seen anything about those ruins.

We just returned from our day in Santorini! It was marvelous. First off, there is now a fourth way to get up the hillside….actually it is replacing the third way. A very simple cable car system has replaced the funicular…six cars go up to the town while six cars go back down to the sea as a counterbalance. That ride is very nice and quite smooth; and Jerry did fine. We joined another couple for the day and had a marvelous day of laughing, sharing, dining, and wandering throughout the town.

Three special places we visited were an ice cream shop, restaurant, and jewelry shop not on the main walkway. Everyone we met was friendly and hospitable so the following are just suggestions. We had gelato in the city square (it was amazing). They had a bittersweet chocolate and a carrot/orange/lemon that did not contain milk as well as a yoghurt based one. All were wonderful. Jerry had his regular (and I know most of you know what that was…plain naked vanilla). We walked to the hilltop church and toured the alleyways and streets stopping here and there to visit with others from the ship. Next it was a scrumptious lunch in a typical Greek taverna overlooking the ship and hillside below. We started with calamari and then it was a variety of Greek salad for each of us. No room for baklava since we’d already begun with the gelato! Restaurant Niki (meaning victory sort of like Nike) has been there since 1965 and this was our third meal with them. Owned by a lovely husband and wife team (we seem to gravitate to that), the food never disappoints. No real address, but the phone is 22860-25273 and you can ask anyone for directions. Just across the walkway and up about three doors is Gold in White Jewelry. Jan found several beautiful and inexpensively priced pieces. Not the Byzantine or heavy gold evident in many stores, this man buys from unique artists and has a much more contemporary feel. The two men just watched as we tried on many pieces and settled on a couple of fun things we just couldn‘t leave behind. Then off to olive oil tasting and soon it was time to return to the ship after several hours of just enjoying the ambience. Grand day! And tomorrow is a sea day followed by Dubrovnik, Croatia.

2010: Istanbul to Venice - 2010-04-27 11:22:56

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik has been on our bucket list since Suzanne told us how much she loved it when she was here in the 1980s. The city, nestled on the Adriatic Sea, did not let us down! Although there was a four-year war against the Serbs fought after Suzanne’s visit, it is difficult to see many indications that a war ever happened in this beautiful city…other than the roofs. The company that originally supplied most of the red brick-colored roof tiles is out of business and the more modern replacements lack the old world charm and are simply bright orange.

Croatia had just gained its independence in 1991, when war with the Serbs broke out. The country has a population of 4.3million (only 50,000 live in Dubrovnik). We can only imagine how the townspeople coped…especially from October 1, 1991, to October 28, 1992, when they had no water or electricity. Bombings probably didn’t do as much damage as being forced to live with no water or power. There is a very touching war memorial with still photos rotating on a television, mostly in black and white. Images of the damage and the citizens’ struggle to exist rendered people in the room speechless.

Because Dubrovnik is a UNESCO World Heritage site, that organization provided most of the money to repair the Old Walled City devastation, where over 1000 people still live inside today. Our photos won’t be the same as being here in person. When you see the narrow alleyways and lengthy staircases leading up outside the walls, it is a sight to behold. The residents still carry most everything in by hand. We saw a few very tiny trucks (think popsicle trucks that deliver ice cream to your neighborhood in the summertime) bringing goods into the stores, but that is all the only larger vehicles allowed inside the walls. Younger people collect at the top of the stairwells hoping to earn a little extra money by helping to carry packages and groceries for the older people who cannot manage both themselves and packages on the trip down the long staircases.

There is an amazing history in Dubrovnik, and we would encourage you to read about it online or in a book. This may actually be the oldest European city. Dubrovnik rivaled Venice for commerce before the New World was discovered. It was a fabulous walled city with access only through two gates which were locked up each night once the draw bridges over its moat were pulled up. The town rector controlled the gate key until morning. It must have been an amazing place being the 3^rd largest port and a very advanced and wealthy country in the 1200’s. Venice actually controlled Dubrovnik for 150 years until 1358, when independence was declared. Then in 1667, a devastating earthquake destroyed most of the city. So with the earthquake and the discovery of the New World, Dubrovnik never regained its status or control.

Today they still use the Kuna as a monetary measure, but they are hoping to join the EU in 2012. They will not take dollars in most stores, but a few of the market vendors will accept those and Euros. The Kuna is worth about 20 cents. We did use Euros to buy some candied orange rind and toasted almonds.

Back to the walled city itself. It is possible to walk the top of the wall in just about an hour and 15 minutes. However, the rain came, we were hungry, and we passed up the opportunity. Those walls are 1.5 to 6 meters wide depending on the strength needed in a particular location. When people came into the walled city, they had to bring one stone every time as payment for entering. That is how the walls and buildings inside were built. It took a total of 500 years construction to finish it.

Fast fun facts:

Nearly 100% of Croatia is Roman Catholic and there were several churches and a wonderful Monastery all inside the walls…the cravat (necktie) was invented in Dubrovnik…and, here is an unusual bit of history: The city’s patron saint is St. Blaise. They actually have his scull, arm and leg entombed in ornate silver casings. Those parts of St. Blaise’s anatomy are displayed in a church. Then, once a year, they carry his body parts in a parade through the city. Rather bizarre.

We have to agree 100% with Suzanne. Dubrovnik is, perhaps, the most beautiful old city we have ever visited.

2010: Istanbul to Venice - 2010-04-27 11:30:57

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Split, Croatia

The beautiful blue seaside city of Split was a marvelous surprise. With a population of 200,000, and centered south of Dubrovnik on the Dalmation coast, summer is here! This resort town is bustling with locals roaming the streets and chatting at sidewalk cafes. Our guide, Maria, said, “In Split, café is the most important daytime activity. We all spend one hour from 11 am until noon every day, drinking coffee, and sharing gossip.” And, at every sidewalk café along our bus route, that statement was completely accurate!

Our five hour tour turned into seven hours, but more about that later. The first stop was a remarkable walk through the Palais de Diocletian, built beginning in 295 AD and finished ten years later. Diocletion was a ruler very impressed with himself and his false gods. However, after his death, the Palace town became totally Roman Catholic; and most of his statues and idols were destroyed. In fact, his mausoleum, in the center of the Palace grounds, was converted into a gorgeous small Basilica which is still in use today. It has the claim of the “Oldest Christian Church in the World” only because the original structure was built in 300 AD and subsequently converted to a church. We had a very special visit, none the less. The white limestone used in this Palace is so durable that very little damage shows, even today, in the vast underground support and storage areas. The Palace itself actually encompassed the entire town much like a walled city. It was very impressive, being built right on the edge of the Adriatic Sea. The waters have receded just enough to permit the building of a pedestrian promenade the width of a highway, and filled with boutiques and the ever-present cafes. One of the world’s ten largest boat shows is also taking place here this week. Sleek titanium looking boats were lined up alongside many larger yachts.

One quick side note: When we were on the Palace grounds, we were treated to a short performance by a sextet of very talented gentlemen. The Dalmation songs they sang (a capella, no less) were performed in the center of an acoustically perfect tower. We enjoyed it so much that we bought their CD after the mini-concert.

Here's a video of one of their songs:

Artist Ivan Mestrovik’s home in Split has been converted into a gallery, with his pieces displayed throughout. It was truly memorable. Many of you may be familiar with his commissioned statues in Chicago. He did reside in the U.S. during much of his later life (where he felt safe). Mestrovik was originally from Split and had given his home, art, and property to the Croatian government before his death. He used nearly all art mediums for his works including paper, ink, oils, wood and stone carving…but he is most famous for his bronzes. Many of his works show intense facial and body pain. The bronzes and carvings of Jesus, Job, and Moses we felt were his most impressive pieces. The portrayal of such true agony was partially due to events in his own life. He lost two of his children; he also refused to provide art for Adolph Hitler and his gang during World War II. This resulted in flights from many places including one intervention by a Pope which actually saved him from execution. Talent used well is hardly saying enough about Mestrovik. His home, overlooking the Adriatic Sea, was a spectacular setting for his art and furnishings, both inside and out on the vast lawns.

Our final event in Split was a river cruise on the Cetina River. What, you’ve never heard of the Cetina? Well, neither had we; but it was such a treat. The sun shone upon our open launches in the wilderness which could have almost been somewhere in Washington state’s Cascades. After about thirty minutes, we pulled over to the first civilization visible and had a marvelous family-style Croatian meal at a road side restaurant that included parma ham, cheese, roasted meat, chicken and potatoes, completed with a cabbage salad. And, to top that off, we also enjoyed a duet singing for us.

Then came perhaps the most exciting part of our day: the bus collected us and we began our route back to Split about thirty minutes away. Suddenly we came upon road construction and found our bus stopped in traffic and unable to move. No alternate route was available. A ten minute delay turned into over an hour. Maria had already run to the construction site and begged for us to pass. This was Croatia and no was the one and only answer. She soon realized for sure we would not be back in time for the ship’s scheduled departure. A telephone call to her agent reminds us all of a very valuable lesson: If you are on a ship’s shore excursion, the ship will not leave without you. And, because this was a ship’s tour, the Silver Wind awaited our return. We were an hour later than our scheduled return, and there were guests on their balconies wondering who was holding us up. We quickly made the transfer back on board, the gangway pulled in behind us, and we were immediately off for Venice. A word to the wise: don’t think that because you are friends with a ship‘s officer or the front desk, or whomever…the ship will wait for you if you are late returning from a private shore excursion; you will be left to find your own way to the next port unless you are on a ship’s tour. Honestly, we know more than one person who has been left behind because of a late return to the ship. Fine to go on your own; but be diligent and be back on the ship BEFORE the final onboard time, just in case!

Venice came early yesterday morning; and we have more stories to tell about that! Just know we are safely waiting out the volcanic ash just outside Venice in a hotel…more to follow.

2010: Istanbul to Venice - 2010-04-27 13:30:43

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Kusadasi and Ephesus, Turkey

Today was certainly a highlight of our many travels! Our Virtuoso guests journeyed with us to visit Ephesus, St. John’s Church (formerly home of Mary, mother of Jesus), and the Kismet Hotel for a private luncheon complete with gifts and fabulous Turkish dancers…followed by our return to Kusadasi for 6 hours of free time before the Silver Wind sailed at 11 pm.

Mary’s House, located just above Ephesus itself, was our first stop. The Bible tells us that, as Jesus was on the cross, He told John that Mary was now his mother and to care for her. This small two-room home, complete with a spring that remains today, were said to be her home in the years following Jesus‘ crucifixion…with John living nearby. The spring still flows out of three taps and many believe the water to be holy and took some with them, bought some, or sprinkled themselves with it. Today the home is preserved and cared for as the Church of St John and, although inside photos were not allowed, we were able to see the lovely little alter inside There are also large prayer boards on the grounds where people tie on their personal prayers written on scraps of paper and cloth. Our guide, Berk, told the men not to miss the washrooms. The women did not have the open view the men did and we shall leave it at that.

Our time in Ephesus, with Berk speaking perfect English, was much more personal than on our three previous trips. Construction of this major city is thought to have begun as early as the 10^th century BC. If you have not been here, you will not believe how advanced this society was. One innovation was the sophisticated water system, which flowed downhill through an intricate series of pipes, providing for a 40-seat toilet room where they say the servants would “warm the marble” for their masters! As the population sat side by side, a rushing water flowed through a trough to continually cleanse the area Another innovative idea was the central heating, mentioned below, in the Yamac houses.

The main reason Ephesus was so large in those days was its location on the Aegean Sea. It was the land terminus of the Silk Road from Asia. Goods boarded boats to both Europe and the Middle East from here. However, since a massive earthquake covered the city, silt has built up, now pushing the coastline nearly six kilometers from Ephesus. The earthquake happened around 431 AD, covering and preserving Ephesus until archaeologists discovered its location just under 50 years ago.

We truly felt we experienced Ephesus at the time of Paul’s preaching in both 52 AD and 57 AD in the huge amphitheatre. Historical information tells us the population must have been over 250,000 because amphitheaters were built to house around 10% of the city’s population in those days. This one held about 26,000. Berk mentioned several times that the people were much smaller then and could sit closer together than we would be able to today. The amphitheater’s acoustics remain excellent even today, and many famous musicians perform concerts here during the Festival of Culture and Art.

The main roadway was called Arcadian Way or the Royal Road and it stretched from the ocean to the top of the city area. Today, only about 30% of the entire complex has actually been unearthed with the majority of the work being done by Austrians. The streets are actually paved with the original marble and ruts from the chariots remain today. In fact, the British have measured the distance between those ruts and have determined that to be the distance between today’s train tracks! Just a bit of trivia: the section from the amphitheater to the port area would be covered with wine when dignitaries arrived, developing into what is today known as “The Red carpet Treatment“.

Several additional hillside homes of the wealthy have been reconstructed since our last visit to the Yamac houses which are still being uncovered on the hillside. Amazing frescos, mosaic tiles floors, wood fired “central heating”, separate rooms and walkways between the houses show us what it was like 2000 years ago in Ephesus, the fourth greatest city in the world at that time. Only Alexandria, Rome, and Antioch in Syria were better known. These houses were just discovered in 1999, so it is a dig very much in progress! Just to give you an idea…one official’s home in the Yamak complex is 6500 square feet!

The final major structure in Ephesus is the most famous one of all. It is known as The Library of Celsus, and was built in 135 AD. Two stories high, the Library housed between 9,500 and 12,000 parchment and papyri documents collected by Celsus himself. His son built the library to honor his father as well as to provide a place for the tomb upon his death. The walls were extra thick to avoid any chance of mildew (being only 300 yards from the Aegean Sea at that time).

Library video:

All of the above sets the scene for our return trip for a patio luncheon on a hill overlooking The Silver Wind and the Kusadasi harbor. We were treated to a scrumpious luncheon and entertained by a troupe of Turkish dancers, completely decked out in period costumes.

Video of dancers:

Our Virtuoso day was run by the onsite fabulous tour company called UTS-United Travel Services, Inc. You can reach them atwww.unitedtravel.com.tr or email them at unitedtravel@unitedtravel.com.tr. This company would be a perfect one to contact for travel throughout Turkey. They are based in Istanbul, but serve the entire region. Several of the Silversea guests had used them in Istanbul prior to boarding the ship, and were also thrilled with the company’s knowledge, guides, and arrangements. We cannot recommend them highly enough…both Mrs. Ustman and her daughter, Didem, were marvelous to work with. They showed true creativity in planning our day. The extra touches were appreciated by all.

And now on to another Greek Island: Mykonos.

2010: Istanbul to Venice - 2010-05-03 11:24:58

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Still in Venice, with visits to Padua and Burano…and then home!

Day 6, post cruise, April 21: we are sitting safely in our hotel room near the airport, a 20-minute bus ride from Venice, awaiting a new estimated departure day of Sunday, April 25. Thinking you might want to read what we’ve been up to, we are posting this blog!

First off, please listen to your agents when they suggest you take the cruise line’s air, even though you may not always get the flights or the seats you would like. Here’s why: Silversea is putting its guests up in the Hotel Monaco in Venice and Regent is housing theirs in Padua, Italy because of the volcanic induced delay in everybody‘s travel. Remember this pertains only to guests with the cruise line’s air-sea package. Why this is so nice right now is that these guests are able to avoid the long lines and trips to the airport for re-ticketing. Someone from the cruise line is doing that for them! Additionally, their expenses are being paid by the cruise line.

As for Jan and Jerry, we were originally scheduled to fly home at 7 am on Saturday, April 17^th on Lufthansa via Frankfurt, Germany, and then directly to Seattle. When that flight was cancelled, Lufthansa kindly rescheduled us to Delta and American Airlines flights direct to JFK on Tuesday, April 20^th, then on to Seattle. That, too, proved futile. Monday night we were told the incoming flight from JFK was cancelled and, therefore, our Tuesday flight was cancelled because no plane was available to begin in Venice. So, Tuesday night it was back to the airport again. We actually had the same Lufthansa gentleman who had rescheduled us last Friday! He is holding up remarkably well, although the fatigue was evident in his eyes.

Each time you change flights you, of course, go to the bottom of the list hoping for any empty seats. Well, the next two empty seats from Venice will be on Sunday, April 25^th…if that flight is not cancelled. Even though we had a ticket for Tuesday, and the planes were flying, we were not. We always travel with five extra days of medications; but this time, that was not enough. We spent two full days working with the incredible Courtyard staff to secure most of Jerry's medications. They were amazing...calling several doctors and pharmacies. Also a special thanks to our pharmacy in Woodinville, for a couple of long distance phone calls and faxes…everything worked out pretty well.

We just saw UK Prime Minister Gordon Brown on BBC. He was stating that the UK is providing help for all stranded UK passengers if they can get to a port. They are even providing 100 coaches to transport their citizens from Madrid, Spain, to the ports for a channel crossing. Europeans also have more rights than U.S. people do. Enough said.

Yesterday we created our own favorite type of non-cruising day: a SEA DAY! No ports of call, just a time to catch up, read, and generally vegetate. That being said, the past few days have been wonderful. Everyplace you go, you run into other stranded people with nearly always a few from the ship.

A side note: During one of our strolls along the back streets in Venice, we came upon a fabulous little silk shop whose name we recognized from Bellagio at Lake Como a few years ago. Pierangelo Masciedri's does it all in his Arte & Moda shop, where he is designer, owner, and father of two daughters who run his store in Bellagio. The head man was actually in the Venice store during our visit. Jerry bought a pleated tie (we have never before seen a pleated tie) and Jan purchased a scarf (or poncho). We love Pierangelo's creativity. It didn't hurt that the wall in his store had a photo and letter from George W. Bush (along with a couple of others: Bill Gates and Bill Clinton). If you are ever in Venice, you can find the shop by following these directions: stay on the water past St. Mark's, go over four bridges (more simply, three bridges past the Bridge of Sighs)...then go left a short block. The store is on the left just inside a square. Pierangelo appears on the adjacent photo with Jan who is, incidentally, modeling the scarf we just purchased.. His web address is www.masciadri.tv.

PADUA

To review our last few days due to the volcano in Iceland erupting: we’ve run into several people around Venice hitting all the tourist spots and eating pounds of pizza and pasta. Sunday we took the local bus to Padua, about 35 miles away. We tried to get on the train first (a 20-minute ride), but the train station was overwhelmed with suitcases and people just trying to get our of Venice. Our new friends (Barbara and Craig) from Connecticut (also from the ship) were still with us. In Padua we befriended a lovely young medical school couple just here for a “quick three day school break“ from England. We also traveled to Padua with a farming couple from New Zealand here from a Regent Mariner cruise, making their way to England for a holiday with their daughter and family.

The eight of us used Jan’s iphone’s GPS for directions from the bus station to the town center (we did veer off route a few times). We asked locals for directions by smiling, pointing and showing them the phone…and easily got back on course in the narrow, nearly empty, and twisty backways. When we emerged from the quiet alleyways, we saw that all the locals were all in town to enjoy the beautiful Sunday afternoon and a huge Sunday market in the town center. Padua was great as usual. We walked about seven miles from the bus station and around the city, had a great lunch where we have eaten twice before, visited St. Antonio’s Basilica (built starting in 1232), checked out the Sunday market, and then proceeded back to the train station. The crowds in the Padua train station were much smaller than those in Venice, and we were quickly on a train back to our home port.

BURANO

Yesterday was even more exciting. The four of us have become very proficient at using the local water buses instead of the expensive water taxis. However, as experienced as we were getting with water bus travel…there were still a few hiccups. We got onto a milk run heading for St. Marco's Square instead of the water bus we were expecting…it must have stopped at every pier between the train station and St. Marcos. We discovered that water bus #2 is the fast one, not #1 as we had been told. We had made arrangements to meet up with Don and David, also from the ship, at 11 am. Unfortunately, we were late and we missed the LN water bus to Burano. But that gave us the time to visit their fabulous penthouse room at the Hotel Loconda Vivaldi, overlooking the entire boardwalk and the Grand Canal. The view was incredible and the Murano chandeliers were elegant, but the red and gold tapestry-covered walls were the best!

Burano is our favorite location in all of the greater Venice area. It is located on an island about a 30-minute water ride from St. Mark’s. The women of the small village make fabulous lace, the men are mostly fishermen, and the entire community is just plain friendly. We have been coming here since 1980, and always frequent the same store. It is called La Perla Gallery. Since our last visit, they have remodeled and it is even more lovely. La Perla Gallery has a lace museum upstairs with even more incredible linens. Their website is www.laceinvenice.com and their email is info@laceinvenice.com. Telephone +39 041 730009 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting +39 041 730009 end_of_the_skype_highlighting begin_of_the_skype_highlighting +39 041 730009 end_of_the_skype_highlighting. We have purchased sheets and many table cloths from them in the past. This time, Jerry bought a mask. Jan was happy with a washable embroidered linen and lace table runner that does not require ironing.

The six of us had a tasty lunch at a small sidewalk cafe on Burano’s main town square. We learned the fish called St. Pietro’s was actually John Dory and it was excellent. We had heard it called just plain “Italian fish” earlier. After lunch, some tasty Italian gelato helped Jerry to pass a few minutes while Jan shopped.

Burano has a fabulous old church that has been tilting for centuries, making for wonderful photos. Be sure to check them out in the Burano section of the Photo Gallery. Jerry and I wandered the small residential area with its narrow winding walkways through the colorful houses complete with fabulous blown glass lamps near all the doors. Great place!

All too soon, it was time for us to make our LN water bus, #2water bus, and #5 street bus back to the Courtyard by Marriott. We had enjoyed another eventful, fun-filled day in and around Venice.

UPDATE, April 23: This posting was delayed until our return to Seattle. That was made possible last night at midnight through the diligent work of our daughter, Suzanne, and Expedia (over two hours on the phone to find two tickets all the way to Seattle) and our son, Greg, who braved picking us up at 11:30 pm. even though he and his wife also just returned from being out of town the day before. Thank you, precious children!!!

Since the airline had lost our original booking in all the delays, we just started over with new tickets: two hours Venice to Paris with a 5.5 hour layover in Paris, Paris to Los Angeles 11.5 hours flying with a 2 hour delay and a 3 hour layover and then finally from Los Angeles to Seattle via our friends at Alaska Airlines: still the best airline, although Lufthansa runs a very close second. Air France, on the other hand, is at the bottom of the list since they missed our row with both lunch and then the horrendous “dinner” they tried to serve. Finally we were served after ringing the call light, but the food was so poor we barely touched it. What was fabulous, though, was the fresh food cafeteria at Charles DeGaulle airport where we had lunch of scrumptious croissant-like pastry filled with chicken, almonds and cinnamon, carrot soup, and a spinach quiche. That along with the walking and window shopping made the time go quickly. Total transit time: approximately 30 hours. And, by the way, we WILL get reimbursed for the return on the original ticket as we have all the receipts, travel insurance and United and Lufthansa confirmation numbers even though they couldn’t find them!

Two others who we have been delighted to spend time with the past few days are a couple from Scotland, also "just in Venice for a few days." Ann and Jim taught us all about Crazy Pizzaria, just down the street from the Courtyard by Marriott, our week's home. Ann and Jim shared their discovery of amazing lasagna and pizza at Crazy's and we had meals there all week long! Tuesday, we were all sad when Barbara and Craig, Ann and Jim, and Jerry and I ventured down the street for our farewell dinner, only to learn of an electrical problem which closed the restaurant for that evening. The six of us, therefore, had a fabulous dinner in the hotel's restaurant...and the company was fantastic!

This then is the end of our VOLCATION (short for Volcanic Vacation), as Suzanne from Strawberry Patches in Bakersfield, CA describes her extended adventure.

2010: Istanbul to Venice - 2010-05-14 15:37:22

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Istanbul

Life is a series of choices and two weeks ago today we made the decision to join Silverseas’ Silver Wind as the Virtuoso escorts for today’s sailing from Istanbul to Venice! Carole, the original escort, had to cancel due to a family illness.

Monday, April 5^th, began like any regular Monday morning at work, but by noon, we were off on Lufthansa to Frankfurt, Germany, with a plane change to Istanbul …arriving at 5 pm Tuesday night. It was a great crossing! The Lufthansa staff was exceptional and, with our last minute reservation, Jerry was still able to secure seats 40 K and L: window and aisle just for two. With very comfy seats and our own sleep blankets from home, we enjoyed the choice of 18 movies (Avatar and What Happened to the Morgans among the selections), numerous cds, television programs, etc. Warm towels on take off and before breakfast kept us feeling refreshed. And although we did not partake, free German beer, red and white wines, and cognac flowed freely. What we did appreciate was the constant flow of water supplemented with orange juice, fresh whole fruit trays, and at least four passings of baskets of Toblerone chocolate bars!

We realized how truly small the world has become when we discovered that the couple in front of us on the first flight lived just a couple of blocks from where Jan grew up in Seattle. We spent some time with them during our layover and then the four of us boarded the Istanbul flight together. They are doing a land tour of Turkey.

Marriott is our choice of hotels when we want to be assured that everything will be just right wherever in the world we happen to be. This was no exception. We had booked online through their elite status website and received (as usual) an addendum of supplemental choices like pillows, personal preferences, etc. Attached to the end of the addendum, was an offer of a private transfer from the airport to hotel which we took. It was nice…and actually cheaper than another gentleman paid whom we had flown into town with! The traffic was horrid; but our customized 7-passenger van was perfect for viewing the sometimes rainy, 2+ hour transfer to our hotel on the Asian side of Istanbul. The international airport is in the European section of the city, which is separated by the Bosporus River from the Asian side. The traffic crossing was amazing: over 30 lanes of vehicles merged into 20 through the optic scanning booths and then condensed to only 5 before the bridge! The rainy weather and darkness prevented any good photos.

Checking in was quite speedy. Soon we were receiving our dried fruit and cheese platter perk that Marriott furnished. Water from the minibar completed our meal and we were off to sleep by 9 pm. It is now 3:57 am and we will take this time to write a bit and then go back to bed. Later today we bid adieu to the Marriott and Istanbul and join the Silver Wind berthed just about a mile from here.

Oops…something got lost in translation. The Silver Wind was actually berthed closer to the airport than to the Marriott. So this afternoon’s cab ride turned out to be just over an hour in length. “The best laid plans…oft times go astray.” Fortunately, our bellman, Berk, straightened us out before we had an incredible Turkish “Businessmen’s Lunch” at the Marriott complete with dolmas, salad, and Turkish filled Flat breads. Wow!

But, we had plenty of time to reach the ship with a great cabdriver and, although the traffic was once again miserable, we are now onboard the Silver Wind and sailing on the way to our first port of call, the Greek Island of Rhodes. Tomorrow will be a sea day, which will give us time to catch up on our sleep, attend a few lectures, and explore this beautiful ship. Our only regret is that we did not have sufficient time to see any of Istanbul beyond what could see from our two taxis.

2009: Discovery Cruise - 2010-05-24 11:46:02

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Cape Sounio to Piraeus

The bus ride from the Grecotel to the Voyager's moorage in Piraeus was uneventful. The countryside along the coastline of the Aegean Sea was picturesque at times, but quite desolate much of the trip. The sea was a light shade of aqua mixed with deep blue, and very clear. At many bays and beaches along the way, we saw people enjoying the balmy weather with a swim in the pristine waters.

As our bus wound its way west, we slowly were driven through civilization, with deserted buildings gradually giving way to small villages, and finally evolving into the outskirts of Athens suburbs and then the bustling port city of Piraeus, where traffic jams were the order of the day. By the time we arrived at dockside, everybody on the bus was anxious to get onboard...a truly painless process on Regent cruise ships. The line to have our photo taken for our boarding card was less than one minute. As quickly as you can say “Jackie Robinson” we had stowed our carry on in our stateroom, and were having lunch.

Yesterday, our first day at sea, we had our Cruise Specialists' gathering, an 10:00 a.m. Tea and Pastry event. We were delighted to learn that Allan, the head sommelier from last year's cruise aboard the Regent Mariner, had been promoted to Assistant Food and Beverage Manager, and was anxious to make all the arrangements for our party. It went very well, as all but two of our people attended. Jan gave out her handmade neck cooling scarves that have become a hit with passengers on our cruises.

Last evening was our first formal evening. As Jerry was dressing for dinner, he discovered that he had forgotten to pack his bow ties and cummerbunds. That was not a good thing, as we have 14 formal evenings on this cruise. A rush to the ship's store resulted in four bow ties and one, quite large (size 48) vest (which was not pretty on him, but served it's purpose).

In the process of unpacking, we also learned that we had failed to pack Jan's newly purchased computer mouse and the printer toner cartridges. I guess that, all things considered...we were fortunate to have missed just those few items with a packing time of only 6.5 hours!

As we prepare this blog, the Voyager is pulling up to Port Said, and we are preparing for a 5:30 a.m. departure on our 15 hour Virtuoso shore excursion to Cairo, the pyramids, and Memphis. But, more about that tomorrow.

2009: Discovery Cruise - 2010-05-24 12:28:21

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Cairo, Egypt

Our day began with a 4:45 am wake-up call. The day was to be a 15-hour shore excursion from Port Said to Cairo with a visit to the pyramids and sphinx. It would be a Virtuoso tour, so we anticipated a first-class day. For those of you who are not familiar with Virtuoso, it is an association of top-tier cruise travel agencies that have banded together to provide their clients with superior amenities, such as this tour. Cruise Specialists is a member of Virtuoso. And, because we have hosted many Virtuoso groups in the past, we were asked to shepherd one of the two buses today.

The drive took us from the industrial Port Said, through the Egyptian desert, past military installations, small bands of Beduins, and into Cairo, a city of 22 million inhabitants. As is often the case in metropolitan areas of this size, Cairo is a city of contracts. We saw large, modern complexes alongside decaying buildings, polluted rivers, and dirty streets. There were men in business suits, and others dressed in flowing gowns and turbans. We saw areas of newly constructed apartment buildings built side by side as far as the eye could see. In the blink of an eye, our gaze changed to the sights of children swimming and fishing in rivers strewn with debris and filth.

Our first stop of the day was at the Giza Pyramids. The three towering pyramids of Cheops are: Cheops (Khofu), Chephren (Khafra or Khafre) and Mycerinus (Menkaura or Menkaure). The pyramids are amazing. Smaller pyramics, built for favorite queens and princesses, also dot the complex. According to Ehab, our guide for the day, the largest of the three major structures in the complex contains enough stones to build a ten-foot high wall from Los Angeles to New York City. Now, that's a big building!

We next had the opportunity to visit the Museum of the Royal Boat of Cheops, the oldest large sailing craft ever discovered. Housed in a building at the foot of the largest pyramid, this well-preserved vessel was displayed in a four-leveled viewing cocoon, where we were privileged to get within arm's length and actually take photographs.

Our final stop at the Giza Pyramids was for photos at the foot of the Sphynx, a lion-like structure with the face of a man. Built at approximately 2558 BC, the Sphynx has weathered time fairly well, with the only major damage being the loss of its nose. Rumors over the centuries suggest that the nose was either destroyed by Napoleon's army or that it was removed by the Romans. According to Ehab, neither rumor is true. He insisted that the nose simply fell off as a result of its somewhat weak makeup (the statue is made of limestone). And, because Ehab has been schooled in Archaeology...we took his word for it.

The entire pyramid/boat/sphynx complex afforded us more photo opportunities than we could have hoped for. Besides the structures themselves, camels were everywhere we turned. And, every camel had it's very own camel jockey, happy to pose for our cameras (for a price, of course). And, for an even higher price, one could climb onto one of the camels and be led on a ride of varying lengths. We opted to pose beside a camel. When asked “how much?”...after the photos had been snapped, the camel jockey answered, “whatever we wished”. When offered $10, however, he became irate and insisted on more. Sad. We remember paying $1.00 for a ride. Of course, that was over 30 years ago.

At lunch time, we feasted on a sumptuous lunch at the exclusive Seasons Country Club. We're surprised that the bus driver was able to navigate his way through the dirt alleys and back streets to find the hotel. But, he did, and we found an oasis in the midst of a rather wealthy section of Cairo. The service was impeccible and the food delicious. It was a meal that definitely met the high Virtuoso standards that we have grown to expect.

In the afternoon, we were driven to a desert plateau to explore the necropolis of Memphis, Sakkara, dated 2558 BC. There we saw the step pyramid of Pharoah Zoser, the first of all pyramids built in Egypt. Our group explored the Heb Sed Court of the complex. The Court and Step Pyramids are the very first buildings in hewn stone in all of the world's history. Next, we entered the Tomb of Coury Noble of the Old Kingdom, and viewed the carved and painted relief scenes giving us a vivid picture of daily life at the dawn of history.

Finally, our bus made a couple of shopping stops. Most memorable was the final stop at Khan el Khalili, or The Souk, which dates back to 1382. Containing over 1600 booths and stores, this souk was both mysterious and intimidating. The sun had gone down, so the lights of the streets and booths lit up the night. There were thousands of people, milling about the several square blocks that comprised the souk. And the merchants were almost forceful in their demands that you view and, ultimately, purchase their wares. We succumbed to a pashmina salesman who had literally hundreds of the silk scarves from which to choose. Luckily, we had but 30 minutes to wander the narrow streets and soak up the atmosphere.

The 2-1/2 hour bus ride back to the Voyager was a welcome respite from the day's activities. It was quiet and gave us time to sleep away our weariness.

2009: Discovery Cruise - 2010-05-24 13:26:40

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Aqaba and Wadi Rum, Jordan

Petra has been on our bucket list for many years and this trip let us cross it off! Our friends, the Ashdowns and the Carters from Australia, allowed us to join them for two fabulous days visiting Aqaba, Wadi Rum and Petra. It was all amazing and exhausting at the same time.

Aqaba, of Aladdin fame, was first. However, there were no magic carpets, no Abu, no outdoor markets and the architecture was definitely 20^th century. But then, we knew it would be; so we simply journeyed through the city to our first major destination of Wadi Rum. Wadi Rum means Valley of the Moon and it lived up to what we think of as moon's surface with ruts of sand and rock.

That being said, our trip truly began when we entered the back end of an old beat-up Toyota pickup for a three hour desert safari to see the actual location where T.E. Lawrence spent days and days in solitude writing his book, “The Seven Pillars of Wisdom”. It was named after seven natural columns on the way to Wadi Rum. Years later, this is where the filming of the movie, "Lawrence of Arabia," took place.

We passed Bedouin camps, lovely colored rock formations, more Bedouins and even more camels. It was 98 degrees, hot and dusty. Our kids would be proud of our adventuresome spirits! It was a great experience bumping and jarring along in the supernatural scenery. Even though we had been drinking water bottles after water bottles, Jan could hardly get into the Marriott in Petra later that evening before she fell asleep. Dehydration was nearly overtaking her. Ten hours later it was up and off to Petra!!

2009: Discovery Cruise - 2010-05-24 14:09:32

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Luxor, Egypt—Valley of the Kings

Just one short night after our Petra/Wadi Rum overnight in Jordan, we were off again with Abercrombie and Kent, only in Egypt this time, for Luxor and the Valley of the Kings! Our bus ride , from the port city of Safaga, was 3.5 hours via convoy into Luxor (even though we six were once again in our own mini bus, which had room for at least 15 passengers). The trip was made enjoyable by our guide, Bahaa. He was so thorough and actually a quite well known man in Luxor. Bahaa had been the Director at the Valley of the Kings during our last visit in in 2005, and also was one of the Eqyptologists responsible for the excavation of the Roman ruins in the most recently unearthed area of the Luxor Temple. Everywhere we went he received kisses, hugs, smiles and waves. His knowledge and reverence for these ruins was very much appreciated.

Our first stop was for lunch on a Felucca (a cloth covered sailing vessel complete with white linens and multiple courses to eat). Food was served as we “floated along the Nile River with perfumed sails,” as Leslyn so aptly put it. After all, that is how Cleopatra sailed there centuries ago. The water-cooled breeze was a surprise in the 96 degree temperature. Time seemed to stand still as we rested and refreshed ourselves with this private luxury dining experience for just the six of us. Bahaa explained all of the foods being served to us and kept saying to save room because more was coming. And come it did!

Since our 2005 trip to the Valley of the Kings, they have discovered several new tombs with one opening just two weeks ago. Of course, Bahaa made sure we saw the best of the 63 tombs. Not all are open to tourists though. Since the King Tut tomb's contents are all in the Cairo Museum, we skipped that one except to look down at its blank walls. Valley of the Kings now allows no photos...even outside of the tombs. Cameras had to be left in the bus. We do have some photos from 2005 posted on this site in our Luxor gallery section.

These limestone tombs took many years to build, carve, paint and furnish; so new Pharaohs and Kings began designing and constructing their crypts as soon as they were elevated to that position. This also explains why some are more finished than others...they simply did not know when the ends of their lives would occur, any more than we do today! These tombs replaced the great pyramid-style of Cairo for the burial sites of kings and pharoahs. Remember, this was all 3000 to 4000 years ago, and looting was a problem even way back then. A hidden tomb was the safest way for them to secure their spot in eternity. Bahaa knows there are many more of these tombs even today, still hidden in the depths of those huge rocky hills.

A photo stop at the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut gave us a closer view than we had in 2005. Much of the area is being redesigned for tourism. For those guests on the full 70 days, and not on private tour, a fabulous dinner was held at the Habu Temple. We stopped by just as they were setting up the tables for the banquet.

Our evening's entertainment was the enlightening Karnak Temple Sound and Light Show with explanations of the ancient gods, idols, and achievements of that time period presented in English as we walked throughout the temple grounds. It was quite nicely done with music, narrative, colored lighting and sounds. Karnak Temple, with its 200 acres, has been a place of pilgrimage for 4000 years and it is considered the mother of all religious buildings to the Egyptians.

Our travel agent, Bonnie, had arranged for us to do a few extra things that Leslyn had requested on this trip, such as our felucca cruise, and an evening horse carriage ride from Karnak to Luxor Temple. It was very romantic trotting along the Nile River in the night lights. However, in our carriage, Jan sat on the front seat with the driver and acutally drove the horse while Jerry sat all alone in the back and took photos! Jan was afraid to offend our driver when asked...can you believe that? Not really too romantic! Well, it was soon off the carriage for a walk through the Luxor Temple, which was also lit up like a Christmas tree. Our bus returned us to the hotel, and a much needed late dinner and night's slumber.

The following morning we were first off again to beat the crowds and heat with a daylight visit to Luxor Temple. We had a private Regent Cruise Banquet there in 2005, with all the trimmings, so it was wonderful to come back again. But the most exciting part of our trip was the valuable first hand commentary of Bahaa, who so loves every inch of these ruins and wanted to share it all with us. He pointed out how they were all covered and the city of Luxor even had a mosque built on top of the Luxor ruins in the 1100s! It shows how deeply so many of these ruins were buried for centuries. He also pointed out the Roman church built at the back of the temple, complete with some frescoes of Christians still partly visible (probably the disciples).

One other amazing discovery is that, in the past few years, the Egyptians have realized that the Karnak and Luxor Temples were actually connected by a 3.5 mile long road lined by stone carved sphinxes. Since that road was discovered, the new Mayor of Luxor has been determined to clear away all homes and buildings in the way so it can be opened for walking between the two temples. Much progress has been made, so look for that road to be completed perhaps when you next visit!

Soon it was time to end our four days of private touring and rejoin the other 650 guests for three much needed and restful days at sea aboard the beautiful Regent Voyager.

2009: Discovery Cruise - 2010-05-24 16:22:32

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Cape Sounio, Greece

We made it to Athens! Or at least to Greece. The Grecotel Cape Sounio is located nearly 2 hours from downtown Athens, at beautiful Cape Sounion.

Our trip to Athens, although long (26 hours), was very uneventful. It spanned two continents, one ocean, two airlines, three flights, and four airports. The only anxious moment was learning whether or not Jerry's 40 pound carry on was going to be accepted by Lufthansa Airlines in Frankfurt. All their literature states that the limit is 18 pounds...but Jerry had that bag stuffed with camera gear, his computer and it's associated accessories, vitamins and medications, and everything else that would fit at the last minute, after all our other bags had been loaded and locked. But, wonders will never cease, it was accepted...so, we and our bags all made it to Athens and even on time.The 90-minute ride here from the Athens airport, at sunset, provided us with a couple of interesting facts from, Helena, the Regent hostess who accompanied us to our hotel: Athens is a city of 5.5 million inhabitants (while Greece's total is 11 million)...it is very crowded and polluted...and the Temple of Poseidon is the second most important Greek ruin (after the Acropolis).

After a good night's sleep, we decided to walk to the Temple of Poseidon...a bit of a hike along a a narrow, winding road to the top of a distant hill. The weather was pleasant, but quite windy. The view from the top of the hill was breathtaking. We definitely got in our exercise today!

Our room at the Grecotel Cape Sounio is actually a small bungalow that overlooks the lovely harbor. We can even view the Temple of Poseidon from our room. It's a fantastic facility in a breathtaking setting...a great way to begin this 70-day sojourn upon which we are about to embark. We'll be hosting Cruise Specialists' clients aboard the Regent Seven Seas Voyager (our favorite cruise line). It's going to be a wonderful voyage.

More information about Cape Sounio:
http://www.capesounio.com/index.php#nointro

2010: Europe and Romantic Danube - 2010-06-26 13:24:18

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

On to Paris...

Our time in England was perfect. We had two days in London followed by four days in Cornwall...the first two with our friend Richard followed by two days at a B&B in Bude. While in Cornwall, we visited several small villages like Padstow (a quaint fishing village built around a small bay with lovely old buildings), Boscastle (had a horrid flood on August 16, 2004, and the town reopened just one year later all rebuilt), Clovelly (twisted little hillside village from the 1600s with no cars down to the water's edge), Bodmin (a lovely town with working steam trains), Weeks Saint Mary (home to the famous pub called The Green Inn complete with a wonderful restaurant and an Australian chef), and Poundstock (with its Guildhouse and St. Winwaloe Church).

We rode a steam train, walked among the fishing villages, strolled out to the Atlantic Ocean's edge along the sea walls, drove through hedged countrysides filled with cattle and sheep, and visited two farms...with Jan even feeding a new lamb. And, we ate at the Jamaica Inn, made famous by Daphne du Maurier's novel of the same name. She also wrote some of her other famous novels there on the Bodmin Moor where she lived for many many years. She is perhaps one of the better known Cornish ladies around.

At the end of our Cornish time, Richard drove us back to Exeter where we boarded a high-speed train bound for London. That was followed by the Eurostar train which took us from London, through the Chunnel under the English Channel, through the picturesque French countryside, and into Paris' Gard de Nord. A limo was awaiting our arrival in Paris, and promptly drove us to Le Bellechasse Hotel in St. Germain de Pres, our home for the next three nights. People were everywhere looking for transportation so we felt fortunate having arranged it in advance.

Using every mode of Parisian transportation available to us, we have visited as many sites as possible in the limited time we have in this beautiful city. Although the Metro did strike for 24 hours of our visit, we managed to not be inconvenienced one bit. The strike was held because the French have been told the retirement age will be raised to 62 from 60! Amazing...we should all be so fortunate. Bankrupt economies have set the tone of each country so far: the English are all mad at the new taxes they will pay to get out of the economic mess they are in and now the French are going to have to give a little. Italy was also on strike yesterday. Perhaps our country could learn a few lessons BEFORE it is truly too late. Enough of that; we are on vacation.

Some things we do every time we are in Paris: must have crepes; stand in Sainte Chapelle (with its incredible stained glass windows) located inside the Palais du Justice grounds near Notre Dame; walk the Seine riverside; watch the sunset from the bridges. We did all those plus Les Invalides, Notre Dame, a bird's eye tour of Le Louvre, Champs Elysee, L'Arc deTriomphe, etc. since Danny and Diane had not been to Paris before. We HIGHLY recommend the Paris Museum Pass to avoid lines in many places. Danny also found a bakery quite close to our hotel and has made three visits so far; we think we can put a little weight on him even though our time is short here.

Our favorite Parisian site, Sainte Chapelle, is currently undergoing some much needed renovation, which will not be finished until 2013; but the time there was still marvelous. Notre Dame and many other treasures have already been cleaned and requilded and show off magnificently. Paris' monuments are as bright and clean as we have ever seen them.

Danny and Diane treated all of us to a fabulous dinner at Le Jules Verne Restaurant at Le Tour Eiffel last night. Service, food, and view made for a perfect setting as we celebrated being in Paris with a cancer free Danny! Thank you, Lord. We finished just in time to go down a few private stairs to watch the sunset. Futbol (soccer) is everywhere here because of the World Cup in South Africa. And, even though France is out of the matches already, the city still continues with its plans to have futbol broadcasts live just across the river from Le Tour Eiffel. We could hear the excitement up where we were as well as the shouts of “Ole' “ from the huge crowds. They were watching Switzerland and Honduras battling to a 0-0 tie when we left.

Jan's favorite Uncle (and also her godfather) passed away two days ago. Uncle Jerry had served in World War II in France landing on the Normandy Beaches, so this time here has been full of special memories. We will go home at the end of the cruise from Budapest to be at his memorial service. Danny and Diane will stay on with the others we join in Munich in a few days. But first it is off to dinner tonight, a Bateau Mouche ride on Le Seine, and then on to Beaume in the morning. Stay tuned as we get closer to our family and friends in Munich where we will venture to Salzburg and then the castle area before Oberammergau and the Passion Play, followed by our Danube River cruise.

2010: Europe and Romantic Danube - 2010-07-01 12:15:10

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Beaune, France

In Beaune, we found a welcomed and appreciated respite from our first hectic week. None of us knew much about the village, situated a short 2-hour train ride south of Paris. Do try to fit Beaune into your schedule, if you're ever in this area. It was simply delightful in food, culture, ambiance, and the friendliness of the local citizens..

Beaune is like walking back in time to the 100 Years War, which created severe poverty and famine for three-fourths of the people in the 1400s. As an answer to the poverty, Nicholas Rolin, Chancellor for the Duke of Burgundy, built The Hotel Dieu (hospital), Hospices du Beaune. That structure proudly stands today as a masterpiece of medieval architecture with a northern (Dutch) influence. The hospital actually functioned until 1971 when it was moved to newer facilities. What enables this hospital to remain so unique and exquisitely decorated is the funding received through the 61 hectacres of vines close by. These grapes have produced the most famous wine auction in the world. Held annually since 1859, this auction benefits the hospital. Hotel Dieu, with its multicolored tiled courtyard and lovely furnishings including the cooking area and centuries old pharmacy, is alone worth the trip to Beaune. The chapel tableaus were also outstanding.

We wandered through the old town's meandering streets and enjoyed a wonderful Sunday with many of the locals out and about in the sunshine. Danny loved poking around the multitude of wine shops on the pedestrian-only alleyways. There is a wine museum (Musee de Vin) containing old grape presses that were huge and quite well preserved.

Our hotel was fabulous. Le Hostellerie de Cedre is just outside the city walls and about a 10 minute walk to the center of everything. Its rooms are nicely appointed and the restaurant was amazing as we enjoyed a 6-course dinner in their garden. We would highly recommend a stay in Beaune and especially this hotel.

2010: Europe and Romantic Danube - 2010-07-05 04:03:27

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Munich, Germany

Returning to Paris via train ended exactly an escalator ride away from our night’s lodging at the Sheraton inside Charles De Gaulle Airport. The following morning’s 7 am flight to Munich was only a two minute walk to concourse 2D. Wow, those were both special gifts for four weary travelers. As we neared Munich, the Bavarian Alps were snow covered beauties out the airplane windows. They renewed us; and soon we were off to explore Munich. Observations from our taxi: clean, wide sidewalks with a multitude of people both on bikes and on foot were flowing nicely; cars moved more swiftly on the Autobahn; drivers were much more courteous than at home.

Our group of four expanded to 20 in Munich as we were joined by our daughter Suzanne, son-in-law Jeff and their three kids Jeffrey, Alec and Abby as well as our son Greg, daughter-in-law Alicia, and their two daughters Annika and Ava. Additionally, seven other friends arrived from Berlin, Prague, and the US. We all had wonderful experiences to share. Soon it was off to watch the famous Glockenspiel and tour St. Michaels Cathedral in Marienplatz. St. Michaels is still being restored, but the inside was absolutely lovely.

The Rathaus (Town Hall) is just over 100 years old, yet it looks much older. It is city center and home to the local government and, of course, the musical glockenspiel. People begin gathering a half hour ahead of time just to watch the characters circle, hear the music and surrounding church bells, and clap for the winning knight as their horses circle in battle.

The fresh food stalls at Viktualien Markt were filled with fish, fruits, vegetables, and many butchers whose cases were stuffed with sausages of nearly every shape and color. It was a treat for the senses for sure as we purchased some fruit and mingled with the locals buying their daily supplies.

Dinner was eaten at a fish market as we filled up on scampi, crayfish, and fish soup. Alicia was able to have her friend, Kristina, from Hamburg join us. They had not seen each other for 16 years (she and Kristina were roommates in Chile as exchange students during college). It was as though they had never been apart as she met Greg, Annika and Ava. She already knew who everyone was through emails. Soon Suzanne and her family arrived. Kristina just blended right in with everyone and the girls switched back to English from the Spanish they had been babbling to each other.

Travelling with computers, flip cameras, iphones with maps and guides, digital cameras (that can also video), and a bit of preplanning make these trips so much more high tech now…as long as you have the proper adapters and converters to keep all the equipment charged. In fact, Greg hooked our whole group of 20 up via Skype on our cells in case anyone has a change of plans, gets separated, finds something we all need to see, etc. And the set up cost is under $10. When you have free WiFi…which is fairly easy to find here, especially in hotel lobbies.

Next stop is Salzburg for the day and then back to Munich.

2010: Europe and Romantic Danube - 2010-07-05 04:05:59

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Salzburg, Austria

Across the street from our hotel, Le Meredien, is the Haupbahnhof, also known as central Munich's train station. Our group of 20 boarded the 7:51 am train to visit Salzburg and be immersed in The Sound of Music movie for one day. It was delightful and less than two hours away from Munich. Even Ava, age six, managed to spend the day on her feet walking mile after mile (she and her dad did share a few naps on the train and the bus, though). Eight year old Annika, on the other hand, is still ready to go with little sleep.

We walked from Salzburg's train station through the old section of the city to the funicular for a ride up the hillside to the Hobensalzburg (Salzburg Fortress). The fortress was begun in 1077. Today's size is pretty close to what it was in 1495. Europe is filled with places like this that are simply amazing compared with what the U.S. had...even in the late 1800s. Everyone enjoyed the medieval castle: from sitting on the cannons, visiting the marionette museum, overlooking the city below, as well as the various architectural features of this actual small village. We ate at the fortress wall high above the baroque buildings of Salzburg, the river, and the Bavarian countryside below. Alec is our battle, fortress, and war historian in the family...so he pointed out the various guns, protective walls and cannons used for defense.

A quick return to town enabled us to catch up with the other nine in our group for our four-hour Sound of Music extravaganza. Panorama Tours prebooked along with the train before we left the US. Many euros were saved by doing it ahead of time by the way. We walked among many of the areas where filming took place in 1964, heard much about the von Trapp family itself, and even drove to the lakes area outside of Salzburg, where we watched para-gliders and toured the village of Mondsee. The Basilika Mondsee was the wedding church used in the movie. This parish church was a former Benedectine Monastery begun in 748 AD, with the current building going up in 1487. The gold leaf baroque interior was extremely interesting. There are even five human skeletons incorporated into the walls, including the architect himself as part of the centerpiece of the altar! That was a bit creepy for us, but nothing compared to The Bone Church that Abby said they had just seen a few days before in Prague. Abby's photos are filled with skulls, bones of all shapes and sizes, and even one section with joints all lined up next to each other. We'll save Prague for another trip.

Mondsee was quaint, with its flower baskets on the homes and buildings, and sidewalk cafes selling apple strudel and pizza to most. We chose to have ice cream instead. On the bus trip back to Salzburg, selections from the 40th Anniversary edition of the Sound of Music DVD were played. If any of you are interested in this movie, we would suggest purchasing this special DVD from Amazon. It is beautifully done with wonderful commentary from Leisl (who is much older that I am 16 going on 17 now!). Great memories for all as we returned on the train for one more day in Munich.

2010: Europe and Romantic Danube - 2010-07-05 12:48:40

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Oberammergau, Germany

The ten year wait is over! In 2000 we saw the Passion Play with Jan's dad and made a promise to him that in 2010 we would bring our kids and their kids to see it just like we had with him. Although he passed away in 2008, he was with us in thought as we retraced that two weeks, except this time with his grand kids and great grand kids...just as he had wished.

It has been a perfect trip so far. And the Passionsspiele (Passion Play) was magnificent! Oberammergau is only a little over an hour away from Munich. Our accommodations were at the Alpenhof Hotel in Murnau, about 25 minutes from Oberammergau itself. The rooms and food were both outstanding.

We are realizing many of you do not know the history of the Passionspiele. In 1633, the village of Oberammergau made a vow to God that, if they should be spared the plague that was raging across Europe at that time...they said would perform a “passion, death, and resurrection of our Lord Jesus Christ”. play every ten years. Although they had lost villagers up until that time, the moment they made the vow, they lost no more of their people to the Black Death. And, beginning in 1634, Oberammergau has produced a passion play every 10 years (except in 1940, due to World War II). Since the 1800s, people have come from all over the world to witness the performance. The current theatre seats 5000 and is sold out long ahead (we have had our tickets and reservations since 2006 even without an itinerary or pricing completed!). There are five plays per week from May to October every ten years. It is a huge undertaking for this small village of 4500 since you must live in the village to be involved in the performance for something like ten years minimum. This year one performer celebrated his ninth and he is 92 years old. Tiny babes to 92 is quite a range and this year live animals included camels, an elephant, sheep and goats.

The Passion Play was a day-long experience. It began at 2:00 in the afternoon and lasted until 11:00 pm, with a 3-hour dinner break. During our break in 2000, we met Karl Fuhrler (who played Gamaliel in 2000, and Simon of Bethany this year). He sells his beautifully carved nativities and other carvings.. We, of course, had to once again find his store to make another purchase. We did, and we did.

No photos are allowed during the performance. They would not do it justice anyway. You feel you are in the midst of everything happening and the music is wonderful. It is also important to note that although some of the script and music has been rewritten, it is still basically the same script used since the early 1800s.

There are six of us already planning for 2020. So if you are interested, keep in touch!

2010: Europe and Romantic Danube - 2010-11-30 11:29:46

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

England

London provided us with a fast and fabulous two days, a fit beginning to our European trip with Danny and Diane, friends from home. We enjoyed the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, a short 2 blocks away from our lovely boutique hotel, The Goring. This was after landing at Heathrow only 3 hours earlier. The Goring staff was amazing: securing fifth row exact center tickets for us at Sir Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest play, “Love Never Dies”. All four of us loved it as we saw the sequel to “The Phantom of the Opera” saga. Webber worked on the play for over 20 years before he had something he felt worthy of the stage.

We visited many London sights and ate the famous foods of the city. All too soon it was onto the train for our trip to Exeter where we separated from Danny and Diane for a couple of days. Diane has a cousin living in Devon who is currently raising and harvesting strawberries for Wimbledon. So they were off to Devon as we were picked up by our dear extended-family friend, Richard. He and his wife own a manor in northern Cornwall. Richard has entertained us like royalty for the past two days: croquet and afternoon tea in his side yard, fish and chips at the ocean’s edge in beautiful 75-degree weather, visits to several seaside villages, cream tea and cake at their neighbors’ farm complete with sheep, lamb, dairy cattle, as well as incredible crispy duck at Tiandi in Bude. But the best part of all is being able to spend some days and nights in their incredible Cornish manor house, constructed over many centuries (sorry, their manor house is not open to the public, just family).

We've posted a couple of our favorite shots of both London and the Cornwall region. If you place your cursor over the picttures, it will identify each photo for you. There are more in the Photo Gallery...and we will post lots more at a later date.

This blog will be updated throughout the next three weeks as we venture across the Chunnel and enjoy more of Europe as well as meet up with our kids and grandkids and some other friends who form our group of 20 for Oberammergau, Salzburg, and the final two weeks.

2010: Europe and Romantic Danube - 2010-11-30 11:31:30

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Regensburg, Germany and Home

Last night our family joined a family from Columbia to watch the futbol (soccer) game in the little exercise room on the flat screen TV. I think there were nearly 30 within about 200 square feet. It was great fun with a bit of rivalry and lots of conversation. Impromptu is perfect for us!

Our visit to Regensburg was highly interesting...but the biggest hit was a visit to a small shop, built in 1320, which made and sold nothing but brautwurst. The small sausages were fantastic, and the tiny room where our family and friends sat around a 12 foot antique table was perfect.

We didn't write any more blogs about this trip. Instead, we used the remaining time to enjoy our family and friends. We've been home now since mid July, and are looking forward to our next cruise. We'll be hosting for Cruise Specialists aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner, and will be spending 72 days floating from Ft. Lauderdale, Florida...around South America, up the Amazon River, and back to Ft. Lauderdale. It promises to be a great adventure.

Upcoming Cruises - 2011-01-13 08:50:42

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

October 13-28, 2011
COLONIAL TREASURES -- Montreal, Canada to Ft. Lauderdale, including Quebec, the St. Laurence River, New York, Charleston and Savannah. See the kaleidoscope of fall colors on this enchanting cruise on the Regent Seven Seas Navigator
Details: Fall Foliage Cruise

- 2011-01-13 12:45:46

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Our circumnavigation of South America begins…

Today is our second day at sea on the Regent Seven Seas Mariner making our way to transit the Panama Canal, visit Machu Picchu and Iguacu Falls, the Antarctic, and the Amazon River. We’ll return to our starting place: Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, in 71 days on March 23^rd. Tomorrow is our first port of call, Willemstad, Curacao.

Avoiding the snow and storms back home, we spent four days in sunny and warm Florida ending up in Ft. Lauderdale. It was a perfect beginning.

But…enough of that. We are underway under mostly sunny skies plying our way through restful Caribbean Sea. Last night, we had our first Cruise Specialists’ Cocktail Party. Amazingly, it was attended by all but 2 of our group of 36. We had a great time reacquainting ourselves with old friends and making new ones. This promises to be an outstanding 71 days. More to follow.

- 2011-01-13 13:30:23

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Our circumnavigation of South America begins…

Avoiding the snow and storms back home, we spent four days in sunny and warm Florida ending up in Ft. Lauderdale. It was a perfect beginning.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-01-17 15:00:17

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Curacao

Our first port of call was Willemstad, Curacao, former capital of the Netherlands Antilles (until October 10, 2010). Curacao is now a very proud, still Dutch-feeling, country as is Aruba (next port). However, their new enthusiasm has been a wonderful reminder to us of what independence truly means. They are excited to have their own rule, monetary system, and the ability to SELF govern through their own decision making processes. The citizens are almost giddy showing off their newly free homeland and they want you to come see them. New hotels, clean beaches, and warm weather with a lack of hurricanes (they claim), as well as a friendly spirit await you.

Willemstad’s brightly colored Dutch facades are newly painted and very quaint. Being a UNESCO World Heritage site, additional funding has restored many of the historic buildings. We toured the Curacao Museum created primarily by three doctors. It contained a lovely carillon, which our guide played, as well as furnishings and artifacts from the 19^th century. They also display the front half of the fuselage of the first airplane to make flights from Amsterdam. . .it was quite small and took 8 days to get to Curacao from Europe; now that same trip takes only 8 hours!

The island is just a few miles off the coastline of Venezuela. And, although our country seldom agrees with Hugo Chavez and his country’s leftwing tendencies…Curacao depends upon Venezuela for most of its oil (but, gasoline is still $3.50/gallon here). The countries appear to be on very friendly terms.

The day’s final stop was to sample some of their the island’s famous Curacao liqueur made from the Laraha orange peel. It was way too strong for Jan! However, they also had a chocolate version that was just right!

After a brief walk along the boardwalk, it was time to re-board the Mariner and set sail for Aruba. We enjoyed a steel band that played for us right up until sail away time.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-01-18 15:52:27

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Aruba

Dutch influence is not nearly as prevalent in the architecture of Aruba as we saw in Curacao, but Dutch is the nationality and language of most of the people of this Caribbean island. Dutch, English, Creole and Spanish are all spoken and understood by most natives. Aruba is filled with beaches, sailing, and wind surfing. Two other huge cruise ships were also docked, but we never encountered any of them until we neared the port on returning from our Land Rover Safari Adventure Tour.

Six Cruise Specialists’ guests (Evy, Kathryn, Chuck, Fran, Jerry and Jan) enjoyed zipping over coral terrain, bouncing through muddy ruts, and ambling past fancy hotels, and elegant homes. We also toured an ostrich farm, the ruins of Bushiribana Gold Smelter, and Alto Vista Chapel (where Spanish missionaries converted local Indians in 1560). Aruba’s Natural Bridge landmark collapsed in 2005, but there is still what is known as Baby Natural Bridge standing; we saw it. However, the views out over the rocks into the bay were spectacular.

Although dirty, tired, and really windblown, it was a great day for all of us! After hitting the showers, we were rejuvenated and were off to the Virtuoso party on the ship’s back deck. Aruba was beautiful as we sailed away into the warm sunset. Tomorrow we dock in Cartagena, Columbia.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-01-18 15:54:55

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Cartagena, Columbia

Arriving at 3 p.m. into Cartagena meant our afternoon and evening would be a little cooler than the 89 degrees we felt as we sailed into port. That was good! As with both Curacao and Aruba, this was at least our third time here so we were interested in seeing changes. All three ports had been improved with paint, the tearing down of old shanty areas, new high rise hotels, cleaner streets, less poverty, etc.

Cartagena was chosen for Virtuoso’s gift excursion for all our Cruise Specialists’ guests. Our bus toured the city and included a stop at La Popa Monastery, which sits high atop a hill overlooking Cartagena. Since it was a late Sunday afternoon, the markets, beaches, and streets were full of people enjoying the beautiful day outdoors…the views were expansive. Although there are still monks living in the monastery, we saw none. The interior courtyard, which is very typical of South American homes, was filled with bougainvillea, a cistern in the center, and lovely archways containing memorabilia. The alter in the chapel was made of 22 carat gold. This whole area will be closed to the public for two weeks beginning January 24^th as the locals participate in religious processions along the 12 Stations of the Cross.

This brings up something we have become intensely aware of on this trip: during the 15^th to 19^th centuries, gold was what this part of the world was all about. Explorers found gold with the Indians and immediately began taking the riches home to Europe. They did most mining along the northwestern coast of South America. At the time there was no Panama Canal for transporting the gold back to Europe for all of those magnificent cathedrals, castles, jewelry and other artifacts. They actually set up four storage locations to secure the gold until it was shipped across the Atlantic Ocean. Some vessels did go around the Strait of Magellan (where we will transit in a couple of weeks), but that was extremely slow and the seas treacherous. Many vessels never completed the return. Instead most shipped to the narrow points of Nicaragua and to what is Panama today, hauled the gold across the land, and boarded it on another ship to store in Puerto Rico, Nicaragua, Cuba or Cartagena, Columbia. You thought I had forgotten where we were, didn’t you? Cartagena had the most secure harbor with only one narrow, deep passage in and a massive wall surrounding the fort area. Much of that wall still stands today…nearly nine miles in length. Elaborate tunnels ran underneath with a system of curved streets and halls allowing the guards to hear any pirates who had managed to get that far.

We stopped by an emerald mining museum which was actually very interesting, but you all know what the last rooms held…emeralds for sale! We did not see any one making purchases however. Following a lovely sunset on the beach/twilight ride, we dined outside at a restaurant on the edge of the walled city overlooking the night lights of Cartagena. We were also welcomed by a lovely female South American Indian complete with gold paint and not much else. Delicious seafood and an entertaining duo created a festive ending to our event.

Tomorrow we transit the Panama Canal. We’ve been told you might be able to see us at www.pancanal.com on January 18^th. If you are reading this later, you can still take a peek at whomever is there now. We arrive at Colon to begin our transit at 5 am and it will take about eight hours total until we enter the Pacific Ocean. There is a camera online and we should be waving to it about 3 pm east coast time.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-01-21 11:23:37

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Panama Canal

In 87 years of continuous use, the Panama Canal has only been closed three times. The third was just last month. Due to extremely heavy rains, the Canal was shut down for 24 hours fearing severe flooding. Otherwise the Panama Canal operates 24/7/365 transiting more than 7000 ships annually. Just as an aside, we were told the Canal is NOT allowed to make a profit and the current tariff is $1.08 a ton. The Regent Seven Seas Mariner paid just over $300,000 yesterday for our transit. I think we have eaten way too many desserts and brought along way too much clothing!

To us, the most amazing part of this incredible engineering feat is that it is operating almost exactly as it has for 87 years. The basics are identical to as it began. One change is that the mules (work-horse train cars that merely guide the vessels through) are now air conditioned. All traffic must remain under its own power while traversing the three sets of locks and Gatun Lake. Gatun Lake was man-made high up in the mountains to allow for easy transit between the Atlantic and Pacific. We crossed over from the Atlantic side; yet our route was actually NORTHWEST to SOUTHEAST. This is because of the position of the Canal in Panama. You might want to take a look at a globe or map to see how it tucks up Panama.

Something else you may not know is that although the Frenchman Ferdinand de Lesseps (of Suez Canal fame) and John F. Wallace began the work, but the actual lock idea and engineering plan was begun by a man from Snohomish, Washington, named John Stevens. Stevens Pass in Washington state was also his project. President Theodore Roosevelt came to see Stevens in Panama when he began disliking working there. Once Roosevelt received a letter from Stevens stating he preferred not to continue, the President appointed the Army Lieutenant George Goethals to finish the project. It is estimated that over 80,000 worked in the construction with 30,000 losing their lives mostly due to Malaria and Yellow Fever. In spite of everything, the Canal opened early and $23 million under budget. This all seems so inconceivable when you see it functioning so smoothly still today.

Currently a third larger set of locks is under construction. It is slightly different in construction in that it will take much less water to process each transit so Gatun Lake should remain fairly constant even with three sets of locks operating.

Our transit was quite muggy before daybreak in Colon, Panama where we began. But once the sun came up and we neared the Pedro Miguel Locks, it was pleasant and most of us were outside for much of the day. Verandas and public decks were filled with camera toting tourists who we all become no matter how many times one goes through the Panama Canal. Our transit was completed in just over eight hours as we sailed into the Pacific Ocean and headed south.

If you would like a closer look and more information, the Canal’s live webcams are available at www.pancanal.com

In fact, we were online on Skype with our office while they captured and sent us the photo below of our ship in Miraflores Locks from the above website yesterday.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-01-27 13:41:41

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Manta and Montecristi, Ecuador

Yesterday, the Seven Seas Mariner docked in Manta, Ecuador, and, for the next 4+ days, we parted ways. Jan left to lead a four night overland excursion to Machu Picchu, Peru, where she was to escort six Cruise Specialists guests…while Jerry stayed onboard to see after the remainder of our flock.

I just talked to Jan on our cell phones this morning, and she and her group are doing well. They just boarded a plane in Lima and are now in their way to Cusco, Peru, the gateway to Machu Picchu. Yesterday’s flight took them to Quito, and on to Lima, where they spent a short night.

But, back to yesterday. I took a half day shore excursion to visit the Manta waterfront followed by a 30 minute ride to the city of Montecristi, nestled at the foot of a mountain just outside Manta. I found the seaside promenade of Manta very picturesque. We saw boats being built, outdoor markets, and boys playing soccer on the smooth sandy beaches. It was a great drive.

By the time we reached Montecristi, we noticed a definite change in our surroundings. Manta had been an industrialized city of 400,000 inhabitants, while Montecristi retains the faded elegance of its Spanish heritage. We received a demonstration of just how Panama hats are made. This village, incidentally, is the home of the world famous Panama hats, made popular by President Teddy Roosevelt.

Our best stop in Montecristi was at the village’s central square, where artisan stalls contained a variety of locally made items for sale…including straw baskets, jewelry, colorful handicrafts, leather belts, and Panama hats. And, this square contained another wonderful surprise. Our tour happened to enter the square just as Jan and her small band were leaving. It seems that their overland included a visit to Montecristi on their way to the airport. Jan proceeded to take 1/3 of my cash, and handed me four Panama hats which she and some of her entourage had just purchased. Fortunately, she left me just enough money to purchase the Panama hat I coveted (fortunately, the merchant agreed to take $20 less than his asking price).

On our way back to the ship, we visited a Tagua factory, which makes buttons, figurines, and colorful jewelry out of the Tagua nuts from 15-18 foot tall palm trees found in the tropical rain forests of Ecuador. Our final stop of the day was Manta’s Archaeological Museum of Banco Central. The cultural and ethnic displays were interesting, but not overly exciting.

After our return to the ship, I took the afternoon to upload some of my photographs to this webpage. The evening was my first “dinner date”…prearranged by Jan with other guests who remained onboard. I guess she was afraid that I would lock myself in our stateroom and starve to death in the 4-5 days she will be gone. It was a good meal, and the company (Betty Moya and Gabriele, Magdanz) was very enjoyable.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-01-28 11:49:42

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Salaverry and Trujillo, Peru

This was Jerry’s first attempt at going on tour without Jan. It was a seven hour tour, and consisted of much, much walking.

The day began with a short drive to Huanchaco Beach to see the famous Caballitos de Totora. We saw small boats made of totora reeds being used by fishermen, just as their ancestors did thousands of years ago. From there, we continued on to Chan-Chan, home to one of the most spectacular and largest ancient cities built of mud in the New World.

Then we drove to Trujillo, Peru’s second city. Founded by Pizarro in 1536, Trujillo still retains much of its colonial charm, complete with a splendid backdrop consisting of the vivid green and brown terrain of the Andean foothills. We enjoyed a delicious Peruvian lunch at a traditional hacienda, withentertainment consisting of a Paso horse show, noted for the distinctive high-stepping, dance-like stride of the horses.

We also saw a performance of Marinera, a distinctive folk dance from the region.

After lunch, we visited the amazing huacas, or temples, built during the Mochica era (1-650 AD) on the left side of the Moche River in Southern Trujillo. The Huaca de la Luna required more than 50 million adobe bricks to be constructed. In front of the Huaca de la Luna, we viewed Huaca del Sol, the largest mud-brick structures in the Americas. It was 372 yards long, 175 yards wide, over 130 feet high, and had a series of terraces and slopes leading to its summit.

After climbing up and down all the hills of the Huaca de la Luna (Temple of the Moon)…Jerry was totally exhausted, and ready for a quite night onboard the Seven Seas Mariner.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-08 10:47:05

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Laguna San Rafael, Chile

We have arrived! Today we saw our first growlers. For those of you who do not know the term, those are smaller icebergs, but larger than bergie bits which are small ice pieces calved off from glaciers. Regent Seven Seas Mariner provided a fabulous event for all of their guests today. The Full Cruise Grand South America guests, however, had a special catamaran complete with amazing appetizers that just kept on coming, all sorts of beverages, lovely Chilean singers and dancers making the one hour transit to the face of San Valentin Glacier zip by. It rain, drizzled, clouded over, sun peeked out; and then as we rounded the final corner at the entrance to the bay, the sun broke through.

Cameras were everywhere as we observed an up close and personal viewing of the incredible turquoise glacial ice from the railings of the catamaran. We have been to Alaska’s glaciers over 25 times, seen Antarctica’s color, sailed the fjords of Norway, and flown over the Arctic; this was not the largest nor the widest, but it was the best color ever in a glacier!

We did see a few smaller calvings take place, nothing major though. Because it was quite warm, the guides explained there had been several break aways since they had visited earlier in the morning. Our ship had another catamaran also shuttling guests back and forth to the glacier face. San Valentin Glacier is a tide water glacier which means it actually flows into the water. There were marks on the rock side dating back to show the receding since 1987. This was also the cleanest glacier with virtually no silt or rock coming down the hillside.

Amazing time…enough said!

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-08 10:53:48

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Iceberg Glacier

Full Grand South American cruisers had another treat last night. We were invited to the bow of the ship for an up close and personal viewing of Iceberg Glacier complete with gluhlich and hot cocoa. We quietly went to the Canyon Ranch Spa and were greeted and lead away down the corridors to the open bow. Staff from our incredible General Manager, Franck Galzy, on down joined in the festivities. In fact it was a nice photo opportunity with several of them. We were able to nearly touch the glacier it appeared so close with wonderful blues due to the light drizzle. This is typical of how thoughtful Regent is. If they can make it happen, they will.

We did look like we were already in Antarctica with all of warmest around us, but it was a wonderful time as we listened to the snap crackle pop of the glacier. There were great views from inside as well as on the other decks and a large number braved the moisture until it began really raining. Then as quickly as everyone ventured out, we were all back inside ready to enjoy another 5 star meal on board. What a grand life we are able to participate in on this trip!

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-08 11:07:39

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Coquimbo, Chile

We have arrived in Chile. For over the next week, it will be our home. At anthropologist, Terry Breen’s lecture, on Chile she amazed Jan with the illustration that if the country were turned upside down and placed alongside the US and Mexico, it would stretch from Baja, Mexico, up past Anchorage, Alaska! Even more interesting is that the various climates mirror those in the northern hemisphere. It includes the driest desert in the world (with no rain ever) to the wonderful fjords and glaciers we will visit the end of the week. We will be in the Lakes region, which Terry says mimics her (and our) Northwest (Washington) heritage, although Terry now lives in New Mexico.

Coquimbo is the port city, but our tour would take us inland. We had hoped to lose the foggy type air, but that was not to be. Even out in the desert we were assured it was due to an inversion off the ocean and that it did not cause rain. No blue or clear skies were seen all day. The people here say it is like this every day. Very gray, but no rain.

Once again we traveled the Pan-American Highway. Our first stop was the desert in the Limari Valley and a tour of 2000 year old petroglyphs. Ancient is an over-used word until you see with your own eyes what is still around in this part of the word…it rivals the Middle East in many ways. Hopefully some of the photos will show the primitive drawings of the 4000 year old pictographs (they claimed these were twice as old as the petroglyphs) found in this open desert area. It was lovely weather for a desert walk and we even passed two guys out camping in the park for the weekend. There were also round 3 to 4 inch holes carved into huge stones called the teacups. Our opinion is that these were probably used for grinding grain or herbs. Smaller ones did look like saucers next to them though.

A nice drive (and small nap) through the countryside, into a winery and then a visit to a beachside restaurant in the resort town of La Serena finished our tour. Since Jerry is now gluten free (and doing very well), we did skip the warm cheese empanadas served at the restaurant. He did not forego the Pisco Sour however!

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-08 11:08:16

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Machu Picchu Adventure--Day 1

As Jerry already mentioned, I departed the Regent Seven Seas Mariner in Manta, Ecuador, with six Cruise Specialists guests for a private 5 day shore excursion to visit several of the sights of Ecuador and Peru. First stop was Montecristi to see artisans make the famous Panama, strike that, MONTECRISTI hats. Jerry’s blog entry already mentioned we managed to see each other after only an hour near the hat making facility. The little village of Montecristi is trying to re-establish itself as THE maker of the previously known Panama hat. They’ve always been made there, but Teddy Roosevelt had worn one in the Panama Canal zone so the hat acquired that name. They are wonderful hats, roll up to almost nothing and reshape nicely…if you get the better quality ones. Three key points about the hats: the tighter and finer the weave, the better the hat; white is good if not accomplished with bleach; and a hand woven supple brim edge brings the highest price. We both purchased a hat, although mine is more of a sun hat.

One thing about South America is just how ancient their history is. We have been continually impressed by museums and ruins throughout the past week. Everything from actual mummies to 500 year old piles of bones to stone ruins...each reminded us of just how old everything truly is. Rather than mention all the museums, I will let you go online to visit the various areas.

Our next stop was 9200 foot high Quito, Ecuador, high up in the Andes. We stood at 0 degrees 0’ 0”, supposedly the center of the equatorial line known as the “Middle of the World”. Apparently, this is the only location where the equator could actually be measured and documented. The marker building has housed exhibits throughout the centuries.

We ended our day with another flight…this time to Lima, Peru. Early the next morning we were on a flight to Cusco, Peru, which is the gateway to Machu Picchu. I also need to mention that our group consisted of Kathryn, Evy, Nick, Mary, me, and Gayle (see the above photo).

Machu Picchu Adventure—Day 2

Cusco is only an hour flight from sea level Lima. However, these flights operate dependent on wind, cloud cover, and the general South American time frame. Lima is the only way to get to Cusco by air since the Peruvian government outlawed flights into Cusco from anywhere but Lima. Cusco sits at 12,000+ feet above sea level high among the amazing Andes Mountains. So our first 24 hours were simply up and down, three flights back and forth to sea level.

Our home in Cusco for the next three days and nights was the superb 5-star Orient Express Hotel Montasterio, built in 1692 and used for centuries as a monastery. The chapel still is open and located next to the courtyard giving us a special flavor to our stay. Our rooms were those used by the monks but totally spiffed up by the Orient Express to pamper our every whim. The food was an event at every meal. You could hear the monks singing in the morning and evening (we found out we were hearing a CD). There is quote in the room book from Bill Gates in 2008 stating it was most enjoyable hotel he had ever stayed in (may not be his exact wording, but the meaning is clear). We were all enthralled with everything even down to the local musician playing a type of harp in the evenings near the fireplace. Ruins and cathedrals occupied our afternoon tour. If you have not been to Cusco, it is important to emphasize slow movement, ample rest, plenty of water, no sedatives, deep breathing, and for many oxygen in their rooms. These are all just facts of life at this altitude. Our group was mostly well, but many people suffer who do not take it easy at first or down too much alcohol.

Machu Picchu Adventure—Day 3

Up early for the highlight of our excursion, we boarded our mini coach for the Hiram Bingham Orient Express train to the base of Machu Picchu. This was easier said than done, however, due to the flooding of last year. We took a two hour bus ride to a new train station just past the flooded area, a two hour train ride and finished off with a 30 minute trip up the base to Machu Picchu, the Lost City of the Incas. We repeated this scenario at the end of the day. Our coaches for the longer rides were very fancy complete with pillows, blankets, boxed snacks and water before we ate a fabulous brunch and then an elegantly served gourmet dinner aboard the train on our way back to Cusco.

Machu Picchu is an ancient city constructed with stones that fit together using no cement. Much of the structures are still standing today. The last to discover it was Hiram Bingham in 1904, according to our Peruvian guide. And, although we had always heard Bingham was the first, now the accepted fact is that local farmers discovered Machu Picchu a few years earlier and took Hiram Bingham to see it. And actually, just about four weeks ago, Yale University and the Peabody Museum agreed to return the artifacts Bingham took away to Boston where they have been over the past 100 years.

I do have to note that our trip was designed by Bill at Cruise Specialists and we were provided the very best of everything. The one thing he could not control was the 270 days a year that Machu Picchu experiences rain! We had a glorious 45 minutes upon entering the site, though; and our guide urged us to spend the first part of that taking as many pictures as possible. As our time continued, it clouded over and then truly dumped on us! We enjoyed the only time the sun was out in a five day stretch. The ship’s tour was shorter and they saw no sun…so we felt very special.

Machu Picchu Adventure—Day 4

The Sacred Valley was our focus today. The first stop was at Awanakancha Breeding Center where we learned about camelids including alpacas, llamas, and vicunas. Up close and personal, one llama even spit at us! We also saw men and women dyeing, weaving, and knitting their fibers into all sorts of articles.

Pisac Sunday Craft Market was huge and lots of fun shopping with the locals. We all bought alpaca blankets for $20 to use on this segment of our trip around the Straits of Magellan. We walked, laughed and talked, used hand gestures, and enjoyed the colorful dress especially of the children.

Our lunch was amazing at the Casa Hacienda Huayoccari located right in the heart of the Urubamba Valley, but it was tucked away from everything including paved roads. The privacy, view, food, service, and museum of this old ranch was such a treat for all us that we lingered long after lunch. One last dining experience at Hotel Monasterio concluded the day.

Machu Picchu Adventure—Day 5

After an hour and a half delay, we flew off to Lima still laughing and reliving our adventure. We had had a few obstacles, but the group loved our time together and especially our Cusco guide, Carlos Cisneros. He was patient, kind, flexible, had excellent English and really knew the territory and its history.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-08 11:08:48

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Lima, Peru

An overnight in Lima afforded us the opportunity to join Evy, Kathryn, and Elizabeth in a van for a private city tour, shopping, and a fabulous lunch at Mango’s just above the beach in a very upscale open mall located in the high rent district of Miraflores. The setting, weather, company and food were all perfect!

Lima was founded in 1535 and is known as the City of the Kings. Most of the original structures from the 1600s still remain in the main square. The Lima Cathedral, Presidential Palace, Lima City Hall, and the Archbishops Palace all surround the lovely square complete with a large fountain. While there, we witnessed the Peruvian President welcome the President of Uruguay for a state visit. This was a case of being in the right place at the right time. There were 4 separate military displays with bands, horses, and even a 21 gun salute. His motorcade and horse guard passed about 15 feet in front of us and the President of Uruguay was waving all the way. It was quite interesting since we were able to just walk right up to the yellow tape and stand in the front row. No real security needed as the crowds just formed and then disappeared.

A visit to the San Francisco Monastery finished our walking tour and was it ever a treat! Two particularly interesting things were (1) a Library on the second floor which is not allowed to be photographed because they are afraid of people breaking in if the contents were made public. It is still used today by archeologists and anthropologists with very limited approval given by the authorities. We were told Interpol was even involved in the security. The books were some of the first printed and many contain original historical documents and drawings back several centuries. Last stop was a walk through the (2) catacombs where over 25,000 people had been buried there by 1812! Many of the bones were lined up as they emptied tombs to make room for new burial space. Again, no photos and that was probably for the best. It was a fascinating Monastery visit. And now on to dune buggies in Pisco!

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-08 11:09:32

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Pisco, Peru
Dune Buggy Adventure

The Seven Seas Mariner’s dock in Pisco was about as remote and isolated as any we have ever seen. We don’t know if Pisco is a city or a village…but any semblance of civilization was nowhere to be seen within view of our ship. All we could observe from our room’s deck was sand made reddish from iron deposits, hillsides, and water. The setting reminded us of being shipwrecked in a desert, with the water being a mirage… very strange, but interesting.

This isolated scene was the launching pad for, what proved to be, the most exciting shore excursion of our cruise thus far: a dune buggy adventure in the sand dunes of Ica, a 45 minute bus ride from the pier. Our ride took us through a very desolate part of coastal Peru. But, as we neared Ica, we noticed stark changes to the countryside. We slowly began seeing more vegetation…and more people. There were fields of asparagus, artichokes, and grapes right in the middle of this huge desert. Irrigation is a wonderful thing.

We finally arrived at the Hotel Las Dunas, where our group of 24 was halved. Our half was outfitted with hard hats and goggles in preparation for the ride in 4-passenger dune buggies (pronounced boogies by our guide), while the other group visited the Regional Museum of Ica. There they viewed artifacts from the five ancient eras of this part of Peru. The artifacts dated back to the pre-Inca period.

Once we were strapped into our dune buggies, we began a 45-minute ride that consisted of swooping and slashing across the 500 foot tall dunes, up and down hills…much like a rollercoaster ride across the desert. It was definitely an exhilarating experience (punctuated by frequent screams from the female members of our group).

Toward the end of the ride, all four of our vehicles stopped at the top of probably the tallest dune and we dismounted the four buggies. Then Jerry, Chuck and Fran got onto ski boards, in a seated position, and shushed our way down the hillside…while Jan took pictures.

After we returned to the hotel, we exchanged positions with the other group and made our way to the Museum where we even saw the best looking mummies we have ever seen complete with hair and even some clothing remaining after all these many centuries. This is due to the extreme dryness of the region. Next stop is Chile!

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-08 11:10:22

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Valparaiso, Chile

Sun welcomed us into Valparaiso and it was a Sunday. The locals were out with sidewalk sales going on for block after block on both sides of the street. You could have bought anything. Very busy and active everywhere you looked. Our day, however, was taking us quickly out into the countryside for a horse rodeo, lunch and a visit to a beautiful winery. As we stopped in Casablanca (Chile, remember), some enjoyed the fountain and main square while many headed to the local grocery store for things we either forgot or had run out of already.

This was the Segment 2 Virtuoso event. Jerry and I traveled with about 30 of our Cruise Specialists group on a bus together. It was great to know everyone on the bus and lots of laughter was shared. Most of us have been together over the years and remembrances always pop up. The ones who have not "been there yet" make a mental note of the best ones as they consider their future plans.

Casas del Bosque Vineyard was marvelous. I was especially happy with the dried grapes, nuts, sweet potato chips and wonderful cheeses since I do not drink wine (sulfite allergy). Quite nicely presented. Those who tasted the wines found them to be excellent though; and we were told 80% of them are exported around the world. If you have a chance, you are encouraged to try them. This, by the way, is the Washington type climate beginning and at home we also have wonderful WASHINGTON state wines. So a little competition here. This winery is only eight years old and just won a gold medal. You can see from the photos, our group was enjoying the tasting.

Soon it was off to Puro Caballo Equestrian Center where we learned about the uniqueness of the Chilean horses and their size and ability to move sideways quickly. We were treated to a working exercises in a rodeo setting followed by a lunch complete with singers, dancers, and musicians. Oh, again those appetizers of empanadas appeared this time filled with meat and onions. The aroma was divine.

Soon it was back to Valparaiso where even more people were out on the streets enjoying the warmth of a sunny afternoon. Along the harbor, beaches were full and we saw a great piece if art…..6 old car frames painted in bright colors hanging from huge clothes pins also brightly painted. Unfortunately my photographer (and the rest of the bus) missed the photo op. It was very clever though and looked great on the beach.

We were told the weather and the waves were going to change beginning with our departure from Valparaiso. And since that time, it has! All night and today we were lulled with large swells rocking us back and forth. Terry Breen explained that we are rounding the largest hump in Chile today and tomorrow we will begin our inside transit finding The Lakes Region and soon glaciers. We can’t wait.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-08 11:10:50

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Puerto Montt, Chile

Welcome to more of German influence in South America. We are always enthralled when we see the influence of the early explorers and immigrants to countries still maintaining some of their customs. Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas (city of roses) even had German schools, kuchen, gingerbread architecture, etc. as we entered the famous Lakes District of Chile.

Our day was filled with fabulous scenery from green fields, lakes, rivers, the Andes, Orsono Volcano, and Petrohue Falls. Cameras were clicking throughout the day. The weather was in the upper 60s and it was one of our highlight days of this trip.

Petrohue Falls were formed over the centuries as water flowed over the volcanic rock from Orsono Volcano. The height was not much, but the color and force of the water, the fabulous surrounding walkways and valley as well as the treat of snowcapped Orsono on the near horizon was breath taking. Lunch followed at a nearby German hotel and restaurant filled with antiques. I even snapped a photo of an old typewriter to text to granddaughters Annika and Ava who had asked what a typewriter was last month! This was even an old non-electric model. I am sure Greg had a lot of explaining to do. Are we showing our age?

Orsono Volcano looked so peaceful when we neared what we thought was the summit. Then we learned two young Frenchmen lost their lives climbing about 10 days ago. Suddenly we saw crevasses and realized how far away we actually still remained.

The wind picked up, skies clouded over, the mountains began to disappear as we made our way back to the ship. Our fairy tale day ended as we rejoined the ship and set our course for Puerto Chacabuco tomorrow.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-08 11:11:36

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Puerto Chacabuco, Chile

Perhaps we haven’t mentioned that Regent Seven Seas offers mostly free shore excursions. Today was another of the best, even better than yesterday’s! As we entered the bay of this tiny town of about 1000, we wondered what could possibly be out there. Part of us said we should continue on with the kayaking tour we had purchased; but with the rain, chilly winds, and perhaps a tipping over, we forfeited that one and went stand-by on a free excursion.

Oh my gosh, was it so very worth it! Our guide was Michelle Lezana (Google her for a view of her photographs). She graduated from college in Santiago this past November with a degree in English Literature and is awaiting her acceptance for graduate studies in Canada, The Netherlands, or England. Was she ever bright and talented! Her English was flawless (she attributes it to watching cable like Seinfeld). This coupled with her knowledge and love of her country,allowed her to share everything with a quick wit and a smile.

Michelle promised a sunny afternoon in her home town of Coyhaique and its 50,000 inhabitants. Coyhaique is by far the largest city in this entire area of Chilean Patagonia. In fact these places are only reachable by water as the Pan American Highway was never finished this far south.

Forest and fauna (huge rhubarb-like leaves similar to those found near Fairbanks, Alaska) made for a lively, but damp botany walk in the Rio Simpson Museum of Natural Resources. Jerry even snapped photos of some red and purple delicate fuchsia blooms hiding among the brush.

As we climbed the Andes’ pass, Michelle delivered the promised sunshine and a fabulous overview of her home town. We dropped down along another branch of the river and into Coyhaique for a short walk in town and past a monument to the shepherds of the area. Complete with a dog herding the sheep, a young shepherd was shown with several sheep . We had time for a walk in the Main Square and down a few side streets.

More cattle on hillsides completed our journey back. However, across from a lovely water fall called Virgin Falls complete with a statue of Mary, was her final surprise. Michelle invited us to a snack. Chileans in this area do not eat dinner; they eat once (pronounced own‘ say) or a snack to us. Well, it was skewers of chicken, beef and sausage as well as plates filled with fruit (biggest grapes we’d ever seen), salmon seviche, smoked salmon, and both cheese and beef empanadas. Three kinds of cheese cubes and cookies finished the selection. Oh, white and red wine, and the by now famous Pisco Sours, kiwi juice and water were also available. That was no snack to us! Dinner was also two hours away.

One final comment: salmon fish farms are everywhere in this area. The fish is not available to the locals unless they catch their own in the rivers outside the farmed areas. All farmed salmon is sold to Japan where it is canned and then some of it is returned to Patagonia! This is the result of a 20 year old contract they signed with Japan. We did see two men carrying a salmon on the side of the road weighing about 30 pounds we estimated.

Once we crossed the Andes again, it was drizzly or raining all the way back to the port. Winds also picked up as we neared the tenders to return to the Regent Seven Seas Mariner.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-09 05:22:39

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Cruising the Chilean Fjords

After the past few days of being in Chilean Fjords, we realize just how long and sparely populated this part of the world is! Trees, more trees, glaciers, and not much else has made for relaxing days afloat. We did have a couple of hours of fairly wild wind (70 knots one night and around lunchtime the following day). So there was some excitement with dishes breaking in the dining rooms and hanging on to the rails a bit, but nothing serious. That just makes for a few stories and laughter as we wave up and down the hallways.

One fjord was 8000 feet deep as we were inside a filled in top of mountain peaks! There are no roads in this area at all and about as many signs of life. Very few birds though. This interesting country is only 45 miles wide in parts of this area and that is not much.

The best highlight was the passing of the Santa Leonora shipwreck. That's a fascinating story I’ll briefly tell. The ship was built in 1944 for the US Navy and later sold to the Grace Shipping Line in 1964. On her maiden voyage from Rio to Santiago around Cape Horn, there was an argument between the Chilean pilot onboard and the ship’s Captain. After a while the pilot just gave in and said, “All right”. Well, the helmsman heard ALL RIGHT and steered the ship accordingly…right into the rocks. This was when it officially became mandated to use Port for left and Starboard for right aboard shipping world wide. Now you know the rest of the story. We were fortunate to pass the remains on the port side of our ship where we live. Jerry took lots of photos off our deck.

On to Punta Arenas and a population of people, not trees.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-09 10:17:22

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Punta Arenas, Chile

Beautiful sunny weather with a high of 54 degrees greeted us today. The wind was more than evident causing us to feel the chill. Our guide for the day said we should really be here in winter instead of one of the best days of this summer! As we looked out over the Straits of Magellan, we realized why these hardy people love it here and are self-sufficient.

Punta Arenas homes had bright blue and red roofs, our guide Carolina said, were to help give some color to this town of about 40,000. Snow is not a huge issue and it appears to be quite dry, but very windy. The tour rushed us through the first city we have seen since Valparaiso and out into the countryside where there is still no electricity on the farms and ranches. We visited the Olga Teresa Estancia (a sheep farm of 2500 sheep). In this area of Patagonia, sheep are extremely prevalent…although we did see some horses, cattle, and rheas (a cross between an ostrich and an emu). Although it was a two hour bus ride, it was very enjoyable with Caroline’s narrative.

The Estancia has been in the same family since 1922. The owners were lovely people and their ranch was a highlight for all of us. We saw their Chilean show horses, watched a sheep shearing and grading of the wool, ate an incredible lamb barbeque served alfresco inside a split log enclosure, and were pleased with the flush toilets (even though their was no electricity). The wool shears, by the way, were run off a generator. Our meal was served on nice glass plates and in glasses.

Authentic Chilean rodeo dancers and musicians finished the day’s entertainment. It was another great Regent shore excursion.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-09 11:07:33

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Beagle Channel, Chile and Argentina

This morning was the beginning of a long day in both the Beagle Channel and then arriving into Ushuaia, Argentina. Yes, you read that correctly: we have left Chile! It was breathtaking along that route though.

The Avenue of the Glaciers in the Beagle Channel was amazing. It was glacier after glacier. Our two favorites were Italia Glacier, where Captain Felice gave a royal Italian salute, being Italian and all…and the Holland Glacier. This route was named for Charles Darwin’s ship, the HMS Beagle. The surrounding mountains are called the Darwin Mountains, and stand at the very end of the Andes.

The Beagle Channel separates the land of Chile from the island of Tierra del Fuego. Tierra del Fuego is jointly owned by Argentina and Chile. Hence, we crossed out of Chile along the way. This also meant we would not go around Cape Horn which was a little further south. We did see that before, however, in 2009 when we took our trip to Antarctica itself. And our ship’s Captain said we would pass by tomorrow morning as well.

Short entry and some lovely shots of more glaciers.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-10 12:25:51

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Antarctica--Day 1

Smooth seas have provided for a chilly but nice day visiting Deception Island first thing today. This island is actually a caldera with a small inhabited Chilean research station, called Port Foster, located on the internal edge during the summer months. This active volcano last erupted in 1970; and although there is a small well known hot springs area inside, people are not too concerned about it erupting any time soon. The smaller vessels can actually disembark their passengers for a chance to swim (really just sit) in the thermal waters from deep inside the volcano.

During our 2009 trip, we had to by-pass this area and today we will not even be able to enter the caldera. A huge rock formation has slid into the water and it has yet to be charted. With a ship of our size, it simply was not safe without proper charts to enter. So we peeked in and enjoyed the scenery from afar. As we approached, the fog surrounded Deception Island. At nearly the last minute, it appeared as if the island had the curtain lifted on its performance.

Several sightings of whales and birds filled the rest of the morning as Captain Felice made the decision to move on ahead and try to reach Paradise Bay before sunset. Time will tell if we make it. But tonight is our Cruise Specialists’ party in Stars Lounge complete with Jerry’s slide show of this cruise to date. He has been busily working to narrow down his several thousand photos to a workable number. With a 3-second time on each photo, our guests should have a great remembrance of all the territory we have visited! Many of those slides can be found in these blogs, but Jan insists he also insert her photos of our guests along the way. This morning he was over 600 in his final cut…much trauma has lowered the number more manageable 370.

Until tomorrow and day two in the Antarctic, we both wish you well.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-11 08:03:47

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Day 2--Antarctica

Our evening was delightful in Paradise Bay with 100s of photos being snapped everywhere. We overnighted and this morning the Regent Mariner was covered in snow! Jan awoke at about 5 am to see snow blowing sideways so fast she could not see anything else. So, the beautiful sunrise and clear skies had moved on and were replaced by huge winds and snow. Captain Felice decided to head for calmer waters after spending all night on the Bridge.

By the way, the photo of the two of us on deck was taken in Paradise Bay at 64 degrees 52 minutes which was our most southern latitude on this voyage. Paradise Bay is on the actual continent of Antarctica. Much of the rest of our trip will be in the surrounding islands, but not on the continent itself. And since this trip is not people landings and expeditions, as in our 2009 trip, you might enjoy checking out that blog and photo links for additional information.

As we raced toward clear skies and our next destination at Half Moon Bay, the weather changed about six times. It is impossible to predict the wind strength and color of the skies this trip. We had hoped for clearing so that we could see the chinstrap penguins, but not this time. Our ship communicated with the Chilean Navy manning the research center at Half Moon Bay and we were invited ashore. However, this ship is too large to disembark passengers in Antarctica. In fact this is the last year the Regent Mariner will even be allowed down here. As of August, 2011, no ship of this size is able to enter Antarctic waters due to environmental reasons. I believe the limitation is to no more than 200 persons and also with a special eco friendly fuel.

Back to our previous voyage on the Minerva: Half Moon Bay is the only place we experienced a snow and freezing sleet shore event on that trip. We still remember the cold! In fact all six of us here from the Minerva (Jim and Della Daughton, Chuck and Fran Jacoby, and Jerry and myself) ate dinner talking about it last night. We could still feel the prickling of the sleet on our exposed faces. This trip: only low clouds and poor visibility, therefore, very few photos of Half Moon Bay.

We will also include a couple of pictures from our Cruise Specialists’ party last night. Over 30 of our Cruise Specialists guests attended and a great time was had by all. Jerry’s slideshow was a hit with stunning photos and some people photos were conversation pieces. We were also treated to the ship’s entrance into Paradise Bay. Since our party was in the Stars Lounge, we kept keen eyes out the window for the ice displays as well! Jarmo, Jerry, Mike, Gayle, Evy and Kathryn could be seen going in and out of our own private door from Stars for just one more photo op.

Right now it is 5 pm and the sun is shining brightly with calm waters as we head for Elephant Island.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-12 10:32:03

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Day 3--Antarctica

Broadcasting a wake up call this morning at 7 am, Captain Felice said the sun was out and we were at Elephant Island and positioned right next to a large iceberg on the port side (our side). Well, we jumped up, dressed and were out on our veranda and soon the outside decks. By 9 am our short time at Elephant Island was all but finished. The once sunny skies had been replaced by fog again and we are now on our way to Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands for some up-close penguin viewing.

The primary reason for our visit to Elephant Island is that this is where Ernest Shackleton’s men wintered while he went for help in 1916. As many of you will remember, his is one of the world’s most heroic stories. The Shackleton expedition set out from England with 27 men Shackleton had hand-picked for their character to withstand the hardship of an Antarctic expedition. In fact, his want ad read in part, “long hours of darkness with safe return doubtful”. Their ship, the Endurance, made it to Antarctica; but, when it become frozen, and ultimately crushed in the ice of the Weddell Sea, the group was thwarted in their mission to cross the Antarctic continent.

The 28 men did escape Sea in three lifeboats, carrying the vessels until they found open water. Finally after 497 days in an ice camp and then afloat, they somehow found the land in the desolate shores of Elephant Island. Shackleton eventually left with five of his men in one 21 foot lifeboat to get help. Those six proceeded to make their way nearly 800 miles across the open sea to South Georgia Island. He left three of his men on the western shore of South Georgia and the remaining three of them hiked across the craggy and snow-bound mountains of that island, and 72 hours later arrived at Stromness Whaling Station.

It was four months before Shackleton’s third attempt to rescue his 22 men on Elephant Island. But, that is exactly what he did onboard the Chilean tug Yelcho. It is an unbelievable story. Not one of the 28 men who left England onboard the Endurance was lost. We have been emerged in Shackleton’s life and tribulations for three days now and cannot imagine how he and his men survived. They used some nails in their shoes for traction over the mountains, lived in the 21 foot lifeboats turned upside down, ate minimally, but never lost hope or courage to fight for another day. Terry Breen, our Regent historian and anthropologist has briefed us, shown films, provided resources and pointed out so much to make the Shackleton story truly come alive. It would be well worth reading some of the many books available about their expeditions.

By the way, this trip we only saw the back side of Elephant Island; but our photos from before point out the monument of where they actually camped on the other side and awaited their rescue.

We did enjoy our time in Antarctica, although it was a much different experience than our expedition on the Minerva two years ago. You can link to photos and that blog as well for more extensive coverage about Elephant Island and our many other adventures in the Antarctic that on that trip. Now we are heading straight for the Falkland Islands and penguins.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-14 11:40:25

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

This, our last scheduled stop near Antarctica, proved to be no stop at all. When the Mariner cast it’s anchor at 7:00 this morning, the seas were rough and the skies very overcast. Soon after a tender was launched to “test” the waters, Captain Felice’s voice came over our stateroom’s speaker with the announcement that we would not be going ashore in Port Stanley. The seas were battering the tender about…and, the weather was expected to worsen to Force 8 gales as the day progressed.

So, by 8:30, we had weighed anchor and are now on our way to our next port of call, Port Madryn, Argentina. There, we will take a group of eight of our Cruise Specialists passengers on a three-day overland excursion to Iguaçu Falls, where we expect to experience much warmer weather than we have had in the Antarctic the past week. We've included a link to our Falkland Island photos from a previous cruise so you can get a sense of the British in South America.

Stay tuned…

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-21 05:27:22

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Puerto Madryn, Argentina

Land again after 7 days!!! We’ve also finished the bad weather and wind and enjoyed 101 degrees as we boarded our plane for Buenos Aires. This was the start of our Iguacu Falls Cruise Specialists’ Private Overland Adventure with eight other Cruise Specialists guests. Before departure though, we spent a nice morning in and around Puerto Madryn. This area sits all alone on the coastline anchored by a large aluminum facility employing over 2000 people. It is also becoming known for its vacation atmosphere with warm sandy beaches much of the year.

We were also surprised at the amount of fishing done in these warmer waters right next several large seal lion communities. Being accustomed to the sea lions of the Pacific Northwest, it seemed strange to watch them frolic in the heat at the Punta Loma Sea Lion Reserve. There were large numbers of cormorants nesting in the rocky cliffs overlooking the sea lions. We spent time watching newly born black sea lion pups only two weeks old moving around their moms. There were a few squabbles among the teenage set…showing nothing is new in any species!

Back in Puerto Madryn, we had a leisurely hour and a half to walk the streets, visit a couple of churches, purchase some merino wool which the area is also famous for, and buy some baby aspirin since Jan had shared hers with a friend. Due to a plane delay, the group also enjoyed a beachside restaurant for lunch. And then we were off to Iguazu Falls.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-23 05:58:29

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Iguacu Falls, Argentina and Brazil

Although we spent a night in Buenos Aires before we actually went to Iguacu Falls, we’ll include that in our next blog about Buenos Aires when we return there in a few days. But, now we are in Iguacu Falls. These Falls are amazingly huge, loud, and everywhere for several miles. Our photos will not show you the magnitude of their actual size, but we are hoping to add a couple of short videos at some point so you can see the rush of the water and hear the rumbling.

By the way, the proper spelling is Iguacu with an accent under the c. For some reason, my keyboard no longer will make the change. To compensate for this, Americans usually spell it Iguazu. Both are accepted.

Iguacu Falls is a National Park co-owned and split down one area of the Iguacu River, a major river leaving the Falls by both Brazil and Argentina. From a view on the main bridge joining the two countries, you can also see Paraguay at the top of the T shape! Paraguay and Brazil have harnessed hydroelectric power from the rivers into a power station second in size only to a new one in China. Argentina, however, has developed many trails, a train ride, walking bridges out to a huge section of falls called Devil’s Throat, and actually has more visitors to this area than Brazil. And, it is easier to gain access to Argentina. The countries are not terribly friendly over the border here and do not allow visitors to go back and forth without proper pre-purchased Brazilian visas and several forms. So, two years ago when we visited (you can find it on our first Antarctica blog), we only saw the Falls from Argentina. This time was different.

Our home for two nights was the Sheraton Iguacu Falls in Argentina. We visited the Brazilian side on Day 2 of our stay. Our guide, Fabula, was very surprised at the number of new falls that had sprung up, and the magnitude of the current water flow compared to her visit six days earlier. She said we were seeing four times the usual flow of water which was shocking to her. Although it does change some, this was extremely heavy and even more than the day before when on the other side. We took a small open train part of the way through the jungle in Argentina where we were alongside a river that nearly crested over the road. Two years ago, it was several feet lower. Rains seem to be everywhere this year! In some places, the open metal catwalk bridges over the rivers were within two feet of the rapidly flowing waters! We could actually feel the water vibrate under us and some of these catwalks are over a block long.

The rainforest here is not like our rainforest in Western Washington…not really many vines and no moss. In fact the jungle floor is quite clear in many places. It was clear enough for us to observe several things: we found a few orchids blooming, beautiful zebra and BB butterflies, a 4 inch tarantula on the walkway, coati (a cross between a possum and a raccoon), and a huge striped snake about 5 inches across (we have no idea how long). Jan just grabbed Jerry and took off. She told him she would tell him later what the problem was! Those of you who know Jan at all, know of her fear of snakes. Well, that vision haunted her all night. Another was spotted bobbing around the edge of one of the bridges we walked over; fortunately she did not know it until later. Enough said. We saw few birds this time and no large butterflies which we attribute to the heavy rains. Fortunately our time there was only in the 90s (temp), with no rain. When we left, rain was expected to be back. We did see some great rainbows.

What a simply incredible place. If you are able, do visit (remember, there is a lot of walking over uneven ground). Our group of ten had a fabulous time with incredible views, great food, wonderful long walks and talks. We concluded that the Brazilian side had the more spectacular views, just not as up close and personal until you reached Devil’s Throat at the end. And although we all decided against the boat ride under some of the lesser falls, you can check that out at our previous visit.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-24 09:14:38

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Punta del Este, Uruguay

Punta del Este is known as the French Riviera of South America. The sights and sounds are different than everything we have seen since Ft. Lauderdale, Florida! Wide sandy beaches and a large number of high rises give the flavor of a major destination. This is a new city. Over 20 years ago on our last visit, there were a few buildings and lots of beach. That was about it! Today Punta del Este is flourishing with visitors from all over the world.

One of the reasons Cruise Specialists has Jerry and me on board is to care for their guests. Today was one of those special events which make our presence especially appreciated. One of our guests needed to be taken to the hospital for some medical care not available on the ship. We made the arrangements with the ship’s doctor and met a car and driver ashore with our guest. The Regent Mariner’s doctor is very professional and has onshore medical contacts through each ship’s agent in every port we visit. Punta del Este is our last stop before three weeks in Brazil, so his thinking was that this was a great place for the proper diagnosis and treatment with orthopedic specialists. He was correct. They were expecting us and a lovely young female doctor with excellent English met us at the entrance. She accompanied us through set up, x-rays, and the doctor’s appointment and treatment itself. She translated when necessary, but added tremendous support as well. In fact she even called the special driver to return us to the ship when we finished.

Even though we had to use a tender to get back to the Mariner, we had our patient back into her suite by 2 pm and ready to rest. I simply point this out because it is one of the reasons we appreciate this service provided by Cruise Specialists. They also provide the private touring cars and guides on these longer voyages as well as private parties, bags, vests, or jackets in addition to hosts.

Back to Punta, as it is affectionately known by the locals. Other than Dr. Daniel Acevedo (orthopedic trauma specialist), the Sanitorio Cantegril Hospital, and the lovely nameless doctor (who we refer to as our angel) all of whom we highly recommend…we did see some playful seals on the dock and the large array of lovely homes and a tremendous number of high rise apartments and condos along the way. Our driver, Daniel, pointed out 85% of these homes are owned by foreigners and the local population is only 8000! Januarys see an influx of over 100,000 Argentineans alone seeking the beach resort life. The harbor was filled with beautiful yachts. What a lovely destination.

And now we are off to Brazil for nearly three weeks.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-24 09:51:42

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Montevideo, Uruguay

Nearly 1.75 million live in Montevideo. Most people coming to South America never come to see how hard the city has worked to restore its original buildings and clean up the old town. It is very easy to walk around, although we have been given the same safety warnings (about taking nothing extra or visible with you in the streets). Here they claim the pick pockets are as young as 12 years old and work together to distract you. No reported incidents as most are following the suggestions.

New buildings are also sprouting up, but we focused primarily on the old town during our walking tour with the ship. It was quite run down when we last visited 20+ years ago. Montevideo continues to be known as the most European city outside of Europe. The many blue eyed and fair skinned people did make it appear European. We walked for about 3 hours throughout the old city enjoying the weather, business people once again dressed in business suits, wonderful architecture, street stalls, a lovely cathedral, and into the new city through the Puerta de la Ciudadela which is all that remains of the walled city dating back to the 1600s.

A tour inside the Taranco Family Palace showed lovely furnishings and paintings from the 1800s. It gave a real feel for the wealth of the three Taranco brothers and, today is a museum where you can tour almost the entire home.

Back on board, we were treated to a Samba show of local talent. Tomorrow is a short ship trip to the lovely resort port of Uruguay just about a two hour car drive away: Punta del Este.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-24 12:37:34

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Buenos Aires, Argentina

On our way to Iguacu Falls, we spent the night at the wonderful Four Seasons Hotel in the Recoleta section of Buenos Aires. Arriving in the afternoon, we set off to visit the upscale stores in the neighborhood. There wasn’t much buying; but there was a lot of looking knowing we would be back for nearly three days following Iguacu Falls. That evening we enjoyed a lovely dinner and tango show at Carlos Gardel’s www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar The costumes and dancing were over the top. The orchestra was on a stage built over and behind the dancers. Their brochure reads in part, “The lights will dim and the orchestra will tune up as elusive legs will begin their dance….is a revival of tango’s sophistication, luxury, and style of the golden decade of Buenos Aires.” Wow, were we entertained by incredible dancing and music! Next morning, we flew to Iguacu (separate blog).

Returning to Buenos Aires, we rejoined the ship in time for nearly three more days of the city where we had experienced a brief taste three days before. All ten of us returned ready to explore with the rest of the ship’s passengers. Some toured, some shopped, and many just ate and ate and ate. Argentina is known for its gauchos and their beef. They are also known (as we had discovered at Iguacu Falls) for their Dulce de Leche. This is an amazingly soft caramel that can be put on many things including toast for breakfast, flan, ice cream, rolls …or simply eaten with a spoon. “Freddo’s Ice Cream Shops have the best Dulce de Leche Ice Cream.” claimed our private car guide, Lucas, to Elizabeth, Kathryn, Jerry and me. He said we had to try some. We did and he was right!

Twice we dined at one of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires just as we had two years ago with Chuck and Fran on our return from Antarctica. We beat most of the crowds by eating earlier that the locals, but both times the numbers waiting extended throughout their lobby, bar, waiting area and onto the sidewalks. Worth every minute of waiting. Try Cabana Las Lilas located in Puerto Madero, the city’s newest barrio (neighborhood) renovated port area…if you ever have the chance. Highlights were grilled provolone cheese, any kind of beef, and desserts complete with complimentary Limoncello and Grappa. Our host, Dirk Bleeker, of Shore Explorations said his best Argentinean steak was found in Greece since they export the top quality. That’s hard to believe though. So after the nine of us dined Friday night (see photo: our guide Marina, Jerry, Jan, Evy Chipman, Kathryn Cay, Gayle and Nick Carter, Elizabeth Kingma, and host, Dirk Bleeker), it was back again on Saturday for lunch with Mary Courim, Betty Moya, and Chuck and Fran Jacoby. Sorry, no photo available of lunch. Our driver had told Mary to order this special cut which turned out to be the size of her plate, so we doggy bagged the rest for him! Several of us split entrees since the sizes were so huge.

If you are ever in need of land packages for South America, please give Shorexplorations www.shorexplorations.com Argentina or Chile a try. They have contacts in Brazil as well. Paul and Dirk did our Iguacu Falls trip and Private Cars for Cruise Specialists www.cruisespecialists.com and they truly were fabulous with the best guides we have had anywhere. All of our guests are raving about their times spent with these fine people and their English as well as knowledge fabulous.

Walking the San Telmo Antique Fair (only on Sundays) was complemented by Tango music and a couple dancing in the park area. We returned to Recoleta Cemetery, La Boca, Palermo, the main square and the pink house (Presidential Palace) as we had two years ago. Best of all this time: no mugging! We took nothing out on the streets with us except a small camera so perhaps that is why. Everyone had been warned and to our knowledge, all did fine. Off to Uruguay!

2011: Circle South America - 2011-02-28 11:43:56

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Southern Brazil

Santos, Rio Grande, Paraty, Ilha Grande, and Buzios are all southern Brazilian ports we missed. That being said, there are many who would say we missed nothing if we were not beach people. We have been quarantined with Jerry having Influenza Type B. Today is our first day out of our cabin in over six days. We actually went to Compass Rose, our ship’s dining room for lunch. Jerry is still quite tired from his ordeal, but he enjoyed being out of our room for a bit. The Regent Mariner’s Dr. Ayala has been checking in on him every day. We feel very fortune to have him on board.

So our blog covering the past week simply contains views from our veranda: boats, a butterfly, downtown Santos both day and night. Other than that, we have seem many lush green islands, beautiful quiet beaches, and all sorts of people enjoying them as well as sailing by. This was our vacation from our vacation! Having missed nearly all of this 11 day segment, tomorrow is Rio and the next day begins our final segment home to Ft. Lauderdale.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-03-03 12:50:48

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Regent Seven Seas gives a wonderful gift when we have overnights in various ports. This allows two or even three days to visit and explore both day and evening venues. Samba shows were highlights for many since this weekend starts Carnival in Brazil. We will not be there but that is a good thing according to one of our guides. The country basically has a five-day party and most everything else stops. Our first day already coincided with Rio’s 446th birthday causing several things to be closed. We had several guests taking their Cruise Specialists’ Private Cars and all were extremely pleased with their guides, especially with a gentleman named Sylvio. He was such a hit…even taking our guests to tour the beautiful old Monastery he had attended. Again we used Shorexplorations.

Do check out additions photos online here under Rio from December, 2009, where we toured Corcovado, Sugar Loaf, Ipamena and Copacabana Beaches.

Fast Facts:
***Corcovado (Christ the Redeemer statue) overlooks Rio standing at 2330 feet above sea level, is the largest art deco statue in the world, and is 92 feet finger to finger and 99 feet tall statue itself.
***Entrance Point Island: received immigrants between 1765 and 1960. It still sits proudly in the harbor.
***Sugar Loaf: stands at 1299 feet, has two cable cars allowing 1360 persons to go up an hour.
***Maracana Soccer Stadium built in 1950 for World Cup held over 166,000. Today it holds only 114,145.
***Official language of Brazil is Portuguese.
***Population: 6 million in center core with 14 million total
***Construction has begun for improvements to house the 2014 World Cup as well as the 2016 Olympic Games. New roads, metro lines, neighborhoods, port facilities, stadiums, etc. are all on the books. Rio residents are excited and say they will be ready in time.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-03-06 05:40:33

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Salvador de Bahia, Brazil

Before we write about Salvador, we want to wish a very special lady, Peggy Dederick, a most Happy 100th Birthday! She is such a precious lady and we will not be there to celebrate, but we want to post it here complete with our birthday photo for her. Peggy is a great cruiser with Cruise Specialists and even traveled around the world with her husband in a sailboat! Happy Birthday, Peggy. Unfortunately we do not have a photo of her to include with us.

With photos already online from December of 2009, we opted to just take a walk this visit to Salvador de Bahia. Betty Fox and Barbara Hall joined us as we ventured down the waterfront to the Mercado (market). The day was warm, and 100s of locals were waiting in line along the street for a ferry to somewhere to celebrate the beginning of Carnival. The upper town itself already had boarded up windows in anticipation. We will never know exactly what happened that night, but as we left the dock at 7 pm, the shouts, singing, and music followed us for nearly an hour! We could see flashes of light, but nothing else. Carnival is huge for Brazilians as they party steadily for three to five days.

Our walk allowed us to see the local people making last minute preparations for the long weekend. Salvador has a charming old upper city complete with steeples everywhere; in fact they have over 365 churches! I am not sure how many are used, but that is another story. It is said to be the most African city outside of Africa and most of the over 2 million inhabitants keep their traditions mixed in to the Catholic religion. It is called Candomble and they “commune with African deities through personal dialogue”.

Although we did not go up the Elevator Lacerda this time, Jerry did get a lovely shot of the 72 foot vertical cement shaft boasting an electrical system since 1928. Originally a rope and pulley system, this “elevator” dates back to 1610 at this same location. Onto almost two sea days and Fortaleza…

2011: Circle South America - 2011-03-08 08:22:00

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Fortaleza, Brazil

The Regent Seven Seas Mariner docked at 7 pm last night, just in time for a fabulous Brazilian Barbeque on the pool deck with lots of us dancing in the warm evening. This was followed by a local troupe performing typical Portuguese/Indian regional dances complete with a thunder storm to cool us all off first. No one left, although we were still damp when we returned to our rooms.

Today we visited the city before leaving for our Amazon adventure. The city has over two million residents and is the fifth largest city in Brazil with over 27 miles of beaches. A couple of special stops were at the Cathedral built in 1976, the Theatro Jose de Alencar, and at the former prison (Casa de Detencao) now an upscale handicraft market with the cells being converted into small shops. We also enjoyed watching several swimmers trying to surf near the English Bridge (which was just a pier).

As we pulled away from the dock, we realized that the Amazon is next on our schedule!

2011: Circle South America - 2011-03-15 11:16:15

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Amazon River Fast facts:

** 200 miles wide at the mouth; 10 to 30 miles wide most of the way to Manaus
**is 20 feet higher than usual accounting for many trees, trunks, branches floating by our ship
**banks have flooded much of the grazing lands
**1000 rivers, that are over 100 miles in length, flow into the Amazon
**over 2000 total tributaries
**10 of the 20 largest rivers in the world flow into the Amazon
**this is the largest jungle and tropical forest in the world
**the Amazon basin is about the same size as the entire United States--can you believe that?!
**there is an island about the size of Switzerland at the entrance
**200 miles into the Atlantic is still fresh water from the Amazon
**head waters are in the Andes Mountains in Ecuador and Peru
**4000 miles long
**we will travel up the Amazon 1000 miles to Manaus
**the Nile is 50 miles longer, but the Amazon has immensely more volume: Nile 34,000 cubic feet discharge per second while Amazon has 7,100,000 cubic feet discharge per second
**flow of volume is one liter of water per person for every person on the planet every 14 seconds
**60 % of Brazil’s area is the Amazon basin

This basin jungle is very infertile on its own with hardpan clay covered by only about 2 inches of soil. It simply is not able to allow roots from the jungle trees to penetrate. So the trees depend on surface roots clinging to each other and other trees for support. Only 2% of the nutrients come from the decayed 2 inches of topsoil. The sun and rain provide the rest. There are an amazing number of varieties of trees, plants and insects here. We’ve been surprised that there are fewer animals than we expected. Terry Breen, our onboard anthropologist says our impression of the Amazon is from Hollywood, not reality. There are insects, birds, monkeys, a few cat species including leopards, and of course lizards and snakes.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-03-15 12:26:08

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Santarem, Brazil

Our fifth and final Amazonian stop was the bustling port of Santarem with a population of over 320,000. Here again we were able to see the Meeting of the Waters…this time it was the clear Rio Tapajos blending with the muddy Amazon. Our guide was quick to point out Santarem gets less rain than the Amazon Delta, making their weather hot and hotter year around. Remember, we have basically been on the Equator for a week now; yet the temperatures have been in the high 80s and low 90s. The humidity has made it a bit sticky, but mostly comfortable.

Our day was spent on a jungle cruise complete with piranha fishing and another trip through the Meeting of the Waters. We passed numerous fishermen on small motorized skiffs as well as some small boats carrying supplies into houses built on stilts along the river and lake banks. Additionally, we toured the waterfront on our return observing the various types of ferries from cattle, people, grain, soy, tin,and bauxite all vying for space along the dike at the river’s edge. This time of year much of the land is flooded and the city’s sandy beaches are actually under water. We did see a corn field and several pig farms, on our jungle cruise, that were not flooded. Brahma bulls, cattle, and most horses had been moved to higher ground until the river recedes.

Although many attempted piranha fishing and we did see lots of them nibble at the fresh cut beef on the hooks, no one on our boat was successful. Our computer manager did catch a sardine…not quite what we had hoped for, however.

Looking back at our Amazon adventure, it was hardly what we expected in regard to animals, weather, jungle, and lack of cities. Disney has it wrong on their jungle cruise for sure! Jerry saw one fairly large iguana on the river in a tree, but Jan saw no lizards or snakes and that was good. We both did fine with the weather and never even wore our cooling neck scarves. Surprisingly, the jungle was nearly vineless, not terribly thick, with no real animals (we were told there are monkeys from time to time), and hardly any bugs! We saw no jungle natives to speak of and the cities looked like any other major metropolitan area in South America complete with major European influence. The movies were wrong again. There are many birds and poisonous insects as well as anacondas, we understand, further inland; we were not sorry to miss the snakes. We did see many egrets, two parrots, lots of hawks, and some black and yellow smaller birds.

There is also a parasite that enters orifices, expands its thorns, and is deadly from the river! Betty Fox actually was able to photography some in the museum which we are not sorry to say we missed. Fortunately, the only person we knew who went swimming was Nick Carter six days ago. We are extremely happy to report that he did not pick up any of those parasites!

As we prepare this blog, we have officially left the muddy, 150 mile wide Amazon River with the out-going current over a sand bar which was only nine feet deep in places…and are safely out into the Atlantic Ocean heading north. And that rainy Amazon Delta? It was out in all its glory with a huge deluge of rain during our Greek barbeque on deck for lunch. It was so massive and unexpected that people’s shoes quickly flooded with the water accumulating on deck! Good-bye to the Amazonas.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-03-16 11:08:26

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Manaus, Brazil

Manaus is huge at 1.8 million inhabitants, and is located nearly 1000 miles up the Amazon River from the Atlantic Ocean! It is amazing. The rubber industry (latex) made it famous in the 1800s as it was the only natural source for rubber in the world at that time. It grew into a well established city. The famous Teatro Amazonas opened in 1896, complete with Italian marble and glass as well as Scottish iron. The Teatro was actually built in Italy and then reassembled in Manaus. We only saw it from the air since we selected a fly over for our time there; its colorful green and yellow dome was fabulous even from the air.

Manaus sits on the edge of the Rio Negro and our goal was to see the “Meeting of the Waters” as the Rio Negro and the Amazon itself melded into one mighty river. We were not disappointed. Our float plane took off from the Manaus International Airport with only five of us in a plane that could have held 10. With a fabulous pilot, we were treated to views from multiple windows and even had a landing and then take-off from the Amazon River itself.

The Meeting of the Waters is created by the warmer Rio Negro’s clear water meeting the colder, café au lait colored Amazon River. The Amazon flows more slowly because of the colder temperatures coming from glacial melt high in the Andes. The color comes from the silt and the eroding clay over the many miles the Amazon travels. We flew over these coffee-like waters with heavy cream swirls that were caught in the flow of the Rio Negro. The two rivers flow side by side for about 5 miles before they finally blend in together as the mighty Amazon flows eastward criss-crossing the Equator.

It was a great flight! We also shot a few photos of Manaus through the van windows.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-03-16 11:40:42

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Parintins, Brazil

Our stop at Parintins was strictly for one reason: to attend a sample of their famous Boi Bumba Festival which takes places every June. It rivals Rio’s Carnaval with floats, dancing, costumes and takes place in a stadium seating 35,000 over three days of competition. Teams compete before tens of thousands of people each year.

We anchored in the Amazon and tendered into a small harbor watching both gray (mostly) and pink bottle nosed dolphins peek in and out of the river. Once onshore, we were welcomed and escorted by the local Boy Scouts, all of whom had perfect English skills. It was a short walk to the town’s convention center, where we were treated to a fabulous all-out festive presentation by several 100s of people who were continuously singing, dancing, and parading floats. The festival wouldn’t have been complete for many without the native Brazilian drink, Caiprihinas. The troupe’s smiles and enthusiasm made for wonderful photo ops. The audience was seen clapping along during much of the performance.

Jerry bought a mask complete with very large dried fish scales for his collection. The ship promptly fumigated it before delivering it to our room. This procedure is just like in Africa and it allows the ship (as well as the passengers) to remain bug free…just in case.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-03-17 13:19:03

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Devil’s Island, French Guyana

Yesterday we made a five hour stop along side three islands off the coast of French Guyana called Les Iles du Salut (or Salvation Islands). This area was France’s penal colony from 1852 until 1946. Prisoners were sent here just to be rid of them from France. The weather and location made escape basically impossible with shark infested waters, limited jungle shelter and a diet of only bread and water sent over once a day by a pulley system. There were palm trees, but the prisoners tried to use them for rafts so all were cut down. Can you imagine? Well, we will have to imagine it with you since we opted out of a walk around the main island. Jan had a scratchy throat; and not wanting it to develop into something worse, we stayed in our room and viewed it from our veranda.

Jerry was able to take several photos, though, so you can get a feel for the lush terrain. The main island, Ile Royale, was the administration center for the prison and staff lived there complete with a hospital, church, lighthouse, and even a stone walled-in swimming area to protect the staff and their families hem from the sharks. All the work was done by the prisoners, of course, and most never lived to tell about it. Some did fulfill their sentences in prison and then had to serve an additional equal amount of time working for the prison system to repay their sentence costs.

The two outer islands held the majority of difficult prisoners with Ile Joseph housing the most troublesome. Devil’s Island held the political prisoners in isolation from most everything and everyone. Many books, plays and even movies have been produced about this place. The movie, Papillion, made in 1973 starring Steve McQueen and Dustin Hoffman, depicts one man‘s personal account of his many attempts at escape. And, in the 1925 film depiction of The Phantom of the Opera, the Phantom was actually an escapee from Devil’s Island.

We were treated to a huge downpour from the comfort of our room where the islands and our tenders all disappeared from view. After 40 minutes, the clearing began and it started to dry up…these deluges have been common for several days both north and south of the equator on this trip. These massive amounts of rain create some steam, but do cool everything down for a while.

The other thing this area is known for is the launching pad for the European Space program at the Kourou Space Center just six miles away. Communications satellites are launched regularly from here. We could see the skyscraper sized hangers six miles away on the mainland as we pulled up our anchor and headed to the Caribbean and Barbados.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-03-18 11:05:37

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Barbados

We are in Bridgetown, Barbados with 10,000+ other people today from 4 other ships! Can you imagine that? Since we did the whole island in December 2009, we opted to stay off tour (as did many others)....instead we took a walk around the docks and the port area, but did not do the touristy thing. And, although many passengers were shopping, we did not. As we approached the entrance to one large shop, the perfume smells were so overwhelming that JanI began to cough: we left quickly. Photos and a blog of our last visit to Barbados are included in our December 2009, blog entry from the Discovery Cruise.

The water is that fabulous Caribbean turquoise off our veranda. Jerry is including a photo of the other 4 ships along side us. With our ship centered in the middle, it is quite a shot. We’ve become spoiled…with only our ship in most ports. As we walked back to the Mariner, we were sharing those feelings with Mike Giddings who commented, ”Yeah, the 75 inhabitants weren’t bad either!” He was referring to last week on the Amazon River at Boca do Valeria. Hmmm, we are spoiled!

2011: Circle South America - 2011-03-19 13:42:22

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Onboard, March 17 and 18

Yesterday was St Patrick’s Day (even at sea) and the ship’s crew put together a St. Patrick’s Country Fair all around the pool deck. It was great fun for both the guests and the crew. Our favorite was the stall from Housekeeping featuring our stewardess, Dwitya (far left). Jerry threw water balloons at nails above the girls and of course, their goggles and life jackets did not keep them dry. Several others: the Jean Ann Ryan dancers were in the pool catching hula hoops with their arms above their heads while the Deck staff played a type of touch football; and the Reception group had wooden horse races. The Fair followed a corned beef and cabbage luncheon on deck. Green was everywhere!

Jerry is working diligently on our final slide show of our entire 71 day trip for our last Cruise Specialists' party next Monday. Several on board have already begun packing. I guess, when you have 20 suitcases, you have to start early! You read that right: those (who live in Florida particularly) do not travel lightly! They just drive home and weight is no problem. But for the rest of us who have to fly out of Ft Lauderdale, luggage is an issue. Regent pays to ship 4 bags per person for those on the full Grand South American Voyage via Luggage Free (www.luggage free.com). Andy is the Luggage Free representative who joined us in Manaus. Anyone can use them and pay, so his table has been quite popular. As hosts, our luggage shipping is not covered, but it is well worth the price and we have used them for several years…especially since the airlines charge so much for overweight or excess bags today. The suitcases are taken from us once we clear customs in Ft. Lauderdale and then sent to our office via Federal Express.. It is a great way to travel!

There was a special reception on the bow of the Regent Seven Seas Mariner for those Gold, Platinum, and Titanium Seven Seas Society members. It was at the invitation of Mark Conroy, President of Regent, who joined the ship today. It was a lovely event as we sailed out of Barbados.

World Cruisers (of which there are about 200 onboard) held a wake for WC last night complete with most of us dressed in all black. It was to show our sadness at World Cruises (WC) being dropped beginning next year. The passengers are still hopeful that Regent will change their mind for 2013 and include the longer cruises once again. This has become a quite closely knit group of travelers, many of which visit and travel together throughout the rest of the year, as well, from all over the world. Hilda Mustonen arrived bearing white lilies in her sorrow. John Fitzgerald was our MC. Mike Giddings read a poem of concern followed by Dick Joiner offering a bit of a speech. The crew received rave comments about how well we are treated and then the center stage was turned over to Mark Conroy.

Mark proceeded to assure us of two things: 1. cruises could be linked on the Voyager out of Auckland for us up to 120 days and several are thinking of going to Barcelona or to Iceland. Regent will consider any over 100 days to be like a World Cruise and will provide special amenities. 2. The ships' schedules are only up to November, 2012 at present. This leaves time to consider a World Cruise again for 2013. Almost all of us left hopeful for 2013!

2011: Circle South America - 2011-03-28 15:49:09

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Amazon River exploration

Our first day on the Amazon, we tendered into the vacation community of Alter do Chao, about 25 miles from Santarem where we will be next week. As we walked along the streets and the promenade, we were simply shocked that we were in the Amazon River Basin. Throw everything out the window: we could have been in any South Pacific little town complete with thatched-roof sunshades on the beach of a lovely turquoise lagoon!

Inside the town’s church we spotted a gorgeous base of tree being used for an alter table with a lovely chalice burnt into the surface. We walked among the locals where everyone smiled and said hello. Our friend, Nick Carter went for a swim saying, “How could you not go in the Amazon for a swim?” With the humidity, he looked the most refreshed of us all.

Our second stop the next day was a tender ride into a fishing village of 75 people called Boca do Valeria. The name means mouth of the Valeria River and the people came from surrounding villages to see us. The little homes were mostly on stilts and the people were all smiles wanting to take us into their homes and show us how they lived. We were encouraged to donate clothing, etc. as our ship delivers a contribution to their “educational and welfare system” on each visit. Some gave clothing, shoes, pencils and pens, etc. and all was graciously received. My Tevas were among the donations and I know they will fit right in among the people of the jungle!

The village chief was all decked out in feathers while children held sloths and lizards on strings for photographers. We saw no monkeys. But we did enjoy watching the pink bottle-nosed dolphins among the floating leaves and branches from upstairs on our tenders. A few guests entered dug out canoes to venture further upstream to see giant lily pads said to be seven feet across…and tomorrow we reach the main Amazon city of Manaus.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-04-18 14:40:20

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Final Blog...home at last!!

We’ve been home for several weeks now, but it’s been a chore getting caught up. After being gone from early January through mid March…our in-baskets were running over with correspondence. But we’re finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. There are still a few finishing touches we need to accomplish to be able to say that our wonderful cruise is completed. Within the next couple of days, we will mail CDs of some of our photographs to the Cruise Specialists passengers who requested them. And, we need to hold our final meeting with the good people at Cruise Specialists…where we get to tell Holly, Teresa, and Bill about the great clients they allowed us to cruise with.

The final couple of ports on the cruise found us so busy onboard that we didn’t even get off the Mariner. So, any photos that we have to share with you of St. Thomas and St. John were taken from onboard. For that, we apologize.

We had a great time on our cruise…met some extremely nice people, renewed friendships, and made new friends. It was an outstanding two and a half months. We visited many exotic ports, and had the opportunity to photograph some beautiful spots. We fully expect to see many of you at some time in the future somewhere on the high seas.

2011: Circle South America - 2011-09-02 16:09:35

jerryjanice@cjhunter.com

Our circumnavigation of
South America begins…

Avoiding the snow and storms back home, we spent four days in sunny and warm Florida ending up in Ft. Lauderdale. It was a perfect beginning.

But…enough of that. We are underway under mostly sunny skies plying our way through restful Caribbean Sea. Last night, we had our first Cruise Specialists’ Cocktail Party.

Amazingly, it was attended by all but 2 of our group of 36. We had a great time reacquainting ourselves with old friends and making new ones. This promises to be an outstanding 71 days. More to follow.